Brandon Lehr 22 Loader support braces

ScottNC

Member
One of the worlds great mysteries; how to use the support braces for a Brandon-Lehr loader. The loader came with the tractor. The previous owner had not removed the loader but had the braces and one of the pinned flanges that goes with the braces. I have made a replacement pinned flange and tried to remove the loader using on line how-to info. Wound up using a boom pole on a second tractor to hoist the thing up high enough to allow backing out tractor number one.

Something in the use of the braces is escaping me. As the bucket is rolled to raise the loader, the brackets continue to splay increasing the angle relevant to the loader lift frame. What makes them form a solid inverted "V" and support the loader?

As it happened, once the loader was raised the front of the loader frame that sits on an "L" shaped bracket on the tractors (DB885) front fell to the ground and the loader rear (where the mounting clamp is located) ended up on the steering arm and front tire. That is when re-enforcements were called in.
 
Scott, post a couple pictures. the stands need to have some support under them such as a 2x6, 2x8 or a 2x10. I have the same loaders and it is a learning curve to use the stands.
 
Never heard of a Brandon Lehr 22 loader, Dunham Lehr 22 yes and they are not hard to take off, just have to work both the lift and bucket cylinders at the same time.
 
Got two of those loaders. First thing I did was scrap those stands. Made a support stand that sets flat on the ground and captures the lip of the bucket. release the clamps and curl the bucket, it picks the whole loader up plenty high enough. To keep frame in position, do NOT leave lift cylinder valve in float!
 
(quoted from post at 17:30:18 02/23/18) Never heard of a Brandon Lehr 22 loader, Dunham Lehr 22 yes and they are not hard to take off, just have to work both the lift and bucket cylinders at the same time.

You are right. Combined two separate projects (in my mind) to create an unknown brand of loader! It's hell getting old and seeing just how dumb you are becoming.

Taking it off wasn't so hard since it fell off. A small challenge was involved in picking it up so the tractor could be extracted. The rear section, with the clamps, is resting on several layers of pressure treated wood. Need now is to get it up and install the legs so that it can be reinstalled. Have it off to access the engine but have decided to replace some of the worn pivot pins and such while it's off. I don't see any grease zirks. I may add some to reduce wear.
 
(quoted from post at 20:06:54 02/23/18) Got two of those loaders. First thing I did was scrap those stands. Made a support stand that sets flat on the ground and captures the lip of the bucket. release the clamps and curl the bucket, it picks the whole loader up plenty high enough. To keep frame in position, do NOT leave lift cylinder valve in float!

From what I am reading, you might offer up those stands for sale as it seems a many did not make it to the current owner of many of these loaders.

How about a picture of your stand? Some basic dimensions too please. I suspect the overall length is important to offset the weight. I may want to pursue something like it as I have friends with pretty comprehensive fab shops behind their homes so the cost would be reasonable.
 
Hi Scott,
Take 2 eight foot 4x4s, and cut 1 foot off end of each! Place a 3 foot 2x6 across the ends of the 4x4s, making the 4x4s roughly 3 feet apart. Place the 1 foot cut offs on top of the 2x6s with overhang back over the 7 foot 4x4s. drill and bolt together.
Lay assembly on floor/ground, and drive loader bucket into the "notch" between the long and short 4x4s.
Hope this is clear, if not, ask more questions, Dave
PS: I used electric utility cross arms for mine!
 
Word of caution! Be very gentle when curling the bucket to lift or set down the loader frame! Feather your bucket control, as a little curl will provide a lot of lift!!
I generally set the frame down on a 55 gal steel drum, to prevent settling, after removal. Place drum, on end, between frame rails, with a 2x6 or similar on top of drum, long enough for frame rails to sit on.
HTH, Dave
 
Is it possible for you to either post or send some pictures. Pined flanges and braces is where you are losing me. Nothing I can think of on a loader I could describe like that. The stands were if I remember correctly 2 x 3" tube that stayed on loader all the time, just unhooked the bottom and let set down on floor and between the tilting of bucket and tilting of the mounting frame together it would lift off easy. Just need extension hydrolic hoses. Don't need any blocks. My tractor and loader have been gone for over 10 years but I still remember how to take things off. email is open. If you would use a hoist to hold up back end you still need to use the lift cylinders for aligning front and rear mounts and need the extra long hoses to do that. The 22 loader had 2 tilt cylinders on bucket, mine only had one. And a different way of clamping frame to the mid belly mount of about a 3" pipe. A plank under the loader stand legs might help depending on height of tractor. Mine was on a Ford 4000 (4100) with 38" rear wheels. And did need nothing under the legs. Would like a picture of the front and rear mounts and side of frame then could tell you more how to do things.
 
(quoted from post at 08:50:15 02/24/18) Hi Scott,
Take 2 eight foot 4x4s, and cut 1 foot off end of each! Place a 3 foot 2x6 across the ends of the 4x4s, making the 4x4s roughly 3 feet apart. Place the 1 foot cut offs on top of the 2x6s with overhang back over the 7 foot 4x4s. drill and bolt together.
Lay assembly on floor/ground, and drive loader bucket into the "notch" between the long and short 4x4s.
Hope this is clear, if not, ask more questions, Dave
PS: I used electric utility cross arms for mine!

On this mornings trip to Tractor Supply I was thinking about your first post and came to the conclusion a contraption just like you are describing here ought to work. Of course in my head I needed something substantial enough to hold a docked an aircraft carrier.

Thanks for the idea! I have cross arms available from an ex-lineman neighbor.
 

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