Cutting a drill in half

Ultradog MN

Well-known Member
Location
Twin Cities
I know a guy that has a 12' I think it's an MM
drill I could buy pretty reasonable. It's a
rope/mechanical lift, on rubber and has always
been shedded. Has grass seed boxes on it.
I've been thinking about buying it and make two
6 footers out of it. Keep one and sell the
other to the deer plotters.
I'm a pretty fair welder, fabricator so not
afraid of that part.
I think most of these old drills were actually
two seperate machines side by side weren't
they?
Kind of wondering if there would be any gotchas
that I haven't thought about.
Thanks.
 
As long as it has two individual "lifts" and metering drive "clutches" it should be doable, just have to fabricate an extra par of "spindles" and come up with suitable wheel/hub assemblies.
 
Friend did that with a Deere steel wheel drill, looks factory. But you would need a doner drill to get enough parts to make a second drill. So if you want narrower drill go for cutting down BUT FORGET about making a second drill. Just keep the rest for repair parts. Not only need complete extra axle assembly but hitch also and to make the parts for second it would look like crap and you could not sell enough for what you would get for the left over parts from scrap price.
 
Im guessing they have only one lift mech. So now your down to making another lift mech, and 2 wheels at least.
 
Jerry- we talked about that many years ago when you were here...I showed you my 10 ft Moline, low rubber, mid 50s drills. Ideal to split- has a lift on each side, separate grass and grain boxes on each side. Still many around, generally 3/4/500 bux or so. You"d need a dummy wheel for each side, leave the drives intact. Check the STC, Brainerd craigslists.
 
Don't know about MM drills. I've channeled 4 different JD drills. Three FBs, and 1 FB-A. I wanted to make 2 from 1, but each drill had a drive gear busted on one side. Built the first 3, sold them for crazy money, then found the one pictured below. It's got the small seed box, and the fertilizer section works. Originally it was a 17-7, 17 drops on 7" spacing. Now it's 8 drops, will hold about 200# of rye or similar seed.





Here's another one, 7 drops on 7", no small seed box, but the fertilizer section worked.
 
Nice.
Cute little drills.
I had an 8' JD model EE for a few
years.
On steel, had the grass seed box.
But even an 8' needs at least a 9'
door to get it into the shed and mine
are only 8'
So it sat outside for a few years till
I felt sorry for it and sold it.
 
That could not have worked as the ground wheels control depth that a 3 point connot hold that close to a quarter inch in heigh or position.
 
It actually works really well the springs on the openers control the depth of the seed
a256603.jpg
 
We had an old IHC drill that had two separate lift clutches and two separate seed meters a drill like that would be pretty easy to split it also had two separate caster wheels
 
All drills I have ever seen have a wheel at each end to carry the frame and from the frame the openers are set to depth and without those end wheels setting the frame height a 3 point will not hold a depth as should for that, same thing that a 3 point cultivator does not hold a perfect depth. That is why later 3 point cultivators have depth wheels on each gang.
 
We don?t have end wheel drills around here only press drills I would never want one after having a drill with press wheels
 
Think I have seen one press wheel drill in my 74 years. Under some conditions the end wheel drills that have a press wheel behind the opener would be good but not in all planting conditions. That I would think has to be used in very dry planting conditions that we don't have around here usually.
 
The little press wheels don't like much moisture that's for sure . I can be drilling and be fine when those little plastic wheels can't go
 
The amount of moisture in ground here in drilling usually would have those wheels packed sollid with mud.
 

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