Manual adjustment NH270/271 Needle safety latch

Hay hay hay

Well-known Member
Can any one provide the manual drawing and directions for adjusting the needle latch? It is totally different from the one on my 276. I would like to test this backup baler, but first want to be sure the safety latch is working.
I'll get a manual soon (much is like my NH276) but would like to use/test this baler tomorrow.
Thanks.
 
All I ever do on my 271 is trip the knotter so the needles start to move up and watch to make sure the plunger safety stop comes up before the needles enter the chamber. This 271 I have is a fence row refugee and I brought it back from dead some 10 or so years ago. Never have gotten a manual for it which I probably should do but there is a decal in the twine box that tells a guy how to time it which did come in handy when the main drive chain broke
 
I am really a stickler for having the needle latch, (plunger stop) in proper working order. The plunger stop on my (new to me) NH270 is a bit odd, in that it hits the plunger instead of the crank. However, this one is not working properly and catches on the plunger both directions. It stops it going one way (as it should) but them seems to catch on it going back (and locks up). What could it be catching on?

What is the stop supposed to hit (on the plunger) ? and what might it be catching on during the return stroke? No way to see into the chamber to see the exact cause of the problem.

Thanks, this is a real head scratcher.
 
Check and make sure the stop is tight on the shaft it rides on so it cannot flip to the side or some such thing. Stop if it hit should hit the push side of the plunger and stop it before it can hit the needles but should not hit/hold the plunger from coming back
 
My 270 the little roller latch on the arm on the needle frame is adjusted extremely to one side, I think to the point an extra hole is drilled and it's not in the sliding adjustable portion. One bolt loosened the other slipped allowing that roller to be off a 1/8 of an inch and I broke 3 shear pins before finding and tightening that bolt.

Something is probably not quite right but it has worked this way for 30-40 years so I'm not gonna mess with it.

How is your disk brake on the knotter? If it is slipping the needles can drop a tiny bit and allow that brake to come into the chamber. Tug on the not tears to see that they are indeed all the way up.

The linkage between the needles and the knotter shaft might be mis adjusted or bent, again allowing the needles to fall a tiny bit.

Paul
 
UPdate: Previous owner (who I never met) was obviously shearing pins. Since that was frustrating, he bought a bunch of grade 8 bolts for shear pins. When that didn't work, he tied a string around the needle latch to hold it open and thus disable it. Brilliant!

Lucky for him, the baler was only slightly "out of time" mainly due to the 1/2 link of roller chain he added rather than simply adjust the idler pulley and properly time the baler. Although it must have sheared pins when the needle latch hit the plunger, it never broke the needles, or destroyed the knotters.

Like so many of his type, He thinks he is wise, but is really just lucky. Most of us have bought used equipment from such rubes, too brilliant to assess a problem and then fix things properly.
 

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