Re: JD 350 Sickle Mower Questions

"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]Do you have a tip for bolt removal, and then replacement with bolts that have the right size nuts for the hex slots?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

This is one method of removing and replacing the cutter bar cap screws.

First block up the support and yoke.



Block up the frame.



Block up the cutter bar near the inner shoe.

Leave enough room to work underneath with a wrench.



Block up the cutter bar near the outer shoe.



Remove the inner shoe.



Remove the smaller shoe and dowel pin.



"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]the four bolts under the inner shoe that secure the cutter bar cannot back out as the nuts spin the in the hexagonal "seats"/"valleys" making it impossible to get a wrench on the nuts to keep them from spinning.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Apply a abundant amount of your favorite penetrate to the lock nuts.

Use a large, flat-head screwdriver.

Drive the flat-head between the lock nut and the ?hexagonal "seats"/"valleys" as tight as possible.

Keep one hand on the screwdriver applying pressure and the other hand on the wrench.

The ?wedged? flat-head screwdriver should keep the lock nuts from spinning.

Be patient because this might take a while to remove the back cap screws.

You might consider using Category 8 cap screws.



Replace the lower shoe using the 5/8 x 2 cap screws and lock nuts.

The parts catalog lists a 5/8 x 2 ? cap screw, but the shorter 5/8 x 2 cap screw allows better clearance for the knife drive yoke.



Continue replacing the lower shoe using the 5/8 x 2 1/2 cap screws and lock nuts.





Replace the dowel pin.



Hope this helps.

"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]Do you have a tip for bolt removal, and then replacement with bolts that have the right size nuts for the hex slots?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

This is one method of removing and replacing the cutter bar cap screws.

First block up the support and yoke.



Block up the frame.



Block up the cutter bar near the inner shoe.

Leave enough room to work underneath with a wrench.



Block up the cutter bar near the outer shoe.



Remove the inner shoe.



Remove the smaller shoe and dowel pin.



"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]the four bolts under the inner shoe that secure the cutter bar cannot back out as the nuts spin the in the hexagonal "seats"/"valleys" making it impossible to get a wrench on the nuts to keep them from spinning.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Apply a abundant amount of your favorite penetrate to the lock nuts.

Use a large, flat-head screwdriver.

Drive the flat-head between the lock nut and the ?hexagonal "seats"/"valleys" as tight as possible.

Keep one hand on the screwdriver applying pressure and the other hand on the wrench.

The ?wedged? flat-head screwdriver should keep the lock nuts from spinning.

Be patient because this might take a while to remove the back cap screws.

You might consider using Category 8 cap screws.



Replace the lower shoe using the 5/8 x 2 cap screws and lock nuts.

The parts catalog lists a 5/8 x 2 ? cap screw, but the shorter 5/8 x 2 cap screw allows better clearance for the knife drive yoke.



Continue replacing the lower shoe using the 5/8 x 2 1/2 cap screws and lock nuts.





Replace the dowel pin.



Hope this helps.

For some reason I am unable to post a reply.

The "bad" word filter is preventing my reply to post.

eMail is open for the answer to your questions.

There should be four "spacers" that hold the cutterbar to the drive. The bolts hold those spacers in place. If only
the bolts are used they will destroy the drive and the cutterbar because they come loose.

Removed the "<font color="#ff0000">[b:654c4848f0]bad"[/b:654c4848f0]</font> word and now the reply will post.

"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]Do you have a tip for bolt removal, and then replacement with bolts that have the right size nut for the hex slots?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

This is one method of removing and replacing the cutter bar cap screws.

First block up the support and yoke.



Block up the frame.



Block up the cutter bar near the inner shoe.

Leave enough room to work underneath with a wrench.



Block up the cutter bar near the outer shoe.



Remove the inner shoe.



Remove the smaller shoe and dowel pin.



"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]the four bolts under the inner shoe that secure the cutter bar cannot back out as the nuts spin the in the hexagonal "seats"/"valleys" making it impossible to get a wrench on the nuts to keep them from spinning.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Apply a substantial amount of your favorite penetrate to the lock nuts.

Use a large, flat-head screwdriver.

Drive the flat-head between the lock nut and the ?hexagonal "seats"/"valleys" as tight as possible.

Keep one hand on the screwdriver applying pressure and the other hand on the wrench.

The ?wedged? flat-head screwdriver should keep the lock nuts from spinning.

Be patient because this might take a while to remove the back screws.

You might consider using Category 8 cap screws.



Replace the lower shoe using the 5/8 x 2 screws and lock nuts.

The parts catalog lists a 5/8 x 2 ? cap screw, but the shorter 5/8 x 2 cap screw allows better clearance for the knife drive yoke.



Continue replacing the lower shoe using the 5/8 x 2 1/2 screws and lock nuts.





Replace the dowel pin.



Hope this helps.

As [b:654c4848f0]Roger in Iowa[/b:654c4848f0] mentioned below, there are two bushings [b:654c4848f0]H62342[/b:654c4848f0] that are installed between the housing and cutter bar.





Hope this helps.