OK, I've done it again... bought a very inexpensive piece of ancient equipment and am trying to get it working well enough to get through a couple of seasons until I can upgrade to something better.
I have a McCormick IH #45 baler. I guess that's a confession. :?
I've read very mixed reviews about them, especially about the knotters having problems.
I think my knotters are OK, but I can't be sure because while the first two bales it makes seem to be tied OK, they never come out of the chute, and the third one never gets tied. As more hay goes in the bales begin to hump up, and the hay gets jammed tighter and tighter without a bale ever coming out the back.
I have tried cranking the chamber tension cranks all the way out but this doesn't seem to help. It appears to me that the trouble is nearer to the twine boxes. There is a pair of chamber wedges there and the manual says these can be removed under "adverse baling conditions."
The fact that this baler is far from new and that those wedges don't look like they've ever been moved makes me reluctant to wade right in with that approach.
So... my question: Is there something else I should check before going the wedge removal route? Has anyone else seen this problem?
Thanks.
John
I have a McCormick IH #45 baler. I guess that's a confession. :?
I've read very mixed reviews about them, especially about the knotters having problems.
I think my knotters are OK, but I can't be sure because while the first two bales it makes seem to be tied OK, they never come out of the chute, and the third one never gets tied. As more hay goes in the bales begin to hump up, and the hay gets jammed tighter and tighter without a bale ever coming out the back.
I have tried cranking the chamber tension cranks all the way out but this doesn't seem to help. It appears to me that the trouble is nearer to the twine boxes. There is a pair of chamber wedges there and the manual says these can be removed under "adverse baling conditions."
The fact that this baler is far from new and that those wedges don't look like they've ever been moved makes me reluctant to wade right in with that approach.
So... my question: Is there something else I should check before going the wedge removal route? Has anyone else seen this problem?
Thanks.
John