JD 435 Round baler tying problem

Having problems with my baler. The tying system will not reset. It will not wrap automatically or manually. The only way to get the system to wrap is to climb off the tractor and run around the baler with a couple wrenches to manually pry up the piston. The piston needs to be held the entire time the wrap system is working.



The piston I am talking about is in the unit at the end on the lines on the right.

Pump has <300 bales and the filter about 125.

Unfortunately JD has changed their pics online and I'm not where I can get to my manuals to scan a more complete picture of the mechanism.[/img]

Is that a cylinder that moves the twine arm, or a regulating valve that allows faster or slower arm movement? Don't know JD balers, and can't
tell exactly from the pic.

If it has some adjustment, it might be dirty in the pin valve, or mis adjusted?

If a simple cylinder, the middle packing/ gland might be worn or broken and needs rebuilding?

These are wild guesses, don't take stuff apart on my limited thoughts......

Paul

Are ALL 5 springs present & attached correctly? I've seen the spool on hyd valve get rusty/dirty causing the spool not to shift up when baler tailgate is closed requiring penetrating oil application. I've also
witnessed dirt/chaff buildup keep latch (key 21) from moving forward. Is latch(key 21) moving forward when tailgate is closed? Latch is intended when in forward position to be under arm(key 14) which in
essence shifts the hyd valve spool UP when tailgate is closed. If you need more explanation you can feel free to email me.
Jim

My dad and I run a John Deere 430 with nearly identical twine wrapping systems. The springs as already mentioned are the usual problem. I even carry any extra set in my tractor toolbox. The next thing I would check is make sure the system is clean no chaff build up etc. also always check fluid level as sometimes this will trigger an issue. The last thing I would check would be is there was air in the system, It shows in the 430 operators manual that in the case a blowgun with a rag wrapped around it and small shots of air being blown into the reservoir to push the air on thru the system. I know this sounds crazy but it does work. Hope I can be of some help.

Every single time I have a no tie situation on my 435 it is a broken spring. I keep one of each around. Look hard - you may not even see where
a spring had been.

Thanks for the input.

Right now I'm out of state until the weekend for work training, come home for 2 weeks then leave for another 3 weeks. I'm trying to get some ideas of where to look to make the repairs quicker. I've got to do my repairs outside and time is getting short.

TX Jim I'm assuming the spool you are referring to is between bolt {24} and spring (5) in the picture you posted? If so, it worked fine for the spring cutting but in the fall would not reset for the 30 bales we made. It would come up fine when arm (14) was manually lifted and wrap would cycle, so I don't think it is sticking.

I will check all of the springs and roll pins. I had one in the bale sizing mechanism fail the previous fall and ended up making a bunch of 3' bales because weather was coming in and I didn't want to stop and diagnose.

IIRC the leg on latch (21) is pointing up like it is supposed to when the gate is closed but arm (14) is not catching on top of it.

When the problem first occurred I changed filter and made sure fluid was full.

I plan on pressure washing that part of the baler. Had a major hydraulic failure and everything got well lubed.

(quoted from post at 16:50:16 03/14/17) It would come up fine when arm (14) was manually lifted and wrap would cycle, so I don't think it is sticking.

I had one in the bale sizing mechanism fail the previous fall and ended up making a bunch of 3' bales because weather was coming in and I didn't want to stop and diagnose.

IIRC the leg on latch (21) is pointing up like it is supposed to when the gate is closed but arm (14) is not catching on top of it.

Click to expand...

3' bales are caused from tying mechanism not relatching(key 45 is suppose to catch on key 4) which will release tension on twine pump belt when tailgate is closed.

Yes spool I referred to is inside hyd valve. If spool isn't sticking then I think latch(key 21) isn't moving far enough forward so arm(key 14) can rest on it when tailgate is closed.

(quoted from post at 16:02:25 03/14/17)

3' bales are caused from tying mechanism not relatching(key 45 is suppose to catch on key 4) which will release tension on twine pump belt when tailgate is closed.

Click to expand...

The 3' bales wasn't a hard fix once I had time to look at it. A roll pin had sheared and I think it was the one holding #43 so the latch wasn't moving. Wouldn't have mattered if I had found it while baling, didn't have a pin and rain coming in. Did look funny with a bunch of baby bales in the field.

Checked the mechanism and everything seemed fine.

Put a pressure gauge on pimp and had good pressure (~1200psi) 2 Sundays ago. Ordered a new spool valve and installed yesterday. Didn't work. Reinstalled gauge 0psi.

Fluid level is ok.

Picked up a new belt incase it was slipping, no change. Belt appears to be functioning properly.

The pump looks like a GM power steering pump. I can get a new pump from napa for 1/3 what JD wants plus they have it on the shelf.

Has anyone done this?

I'm curious how pressure can go from 1200 psi to 0 psi? Are you positive belt is turning the pump????????????

I've read that GM pump can't be substituted for JD pump but I thought I put a GM pump on rd balers in lieu factory pump yrs back. I wonder if pulleys are the same size or if relief valves are different psi?

(quoted from post at 04:22:01 05/09/17)
I'm curious how pressure can go from 1200 psi to 0 psi? Are you positive belt is turning the pump????????????

I've read that GM pump can't be substituted for JD pump but I thought I put a GM pump on rd balers in lieu factory pump yrs back. I wonder if pulleys are the same size or if relief valves are different psi?

Click to expand...

I'm wondering the same thing. What gets me is I didn't do anything with the pump when I replaced the valve.

I replaced the belt incase the old one was slipping with no change and I can see the belt moving.

I had an old pump off of it that I dropped off with a friend who should be able to rebuild it.

My buddy tore down the pump that came on the baler, never throw anything away.

Same seals as a GM power steering pump, IIRC 80s vintage truck.
The pressure releaf valve was set to max, no shims. He said the orfice was the smallest he had ever seen. So I guess there would be no problem using one in an emergency.

The problem turned out I had gotten an air slug in the pump. Rotated pump backwards many times then attempted to do a pressure bleed as described in the manual. Didn't completely work but the system started working somewhat. I repeatedly cycled the system by lifting the valve up until the manual tie started working.

WIth the excepting of the auto tie not working today everything went better than usual today until the baler caught fire.

Sorry to hear about your baler fire & hope it was hurt too bad. One thing is for sure "all colors of balers" can catch on fire. Laser thermometer is a good tool when utilized to check for hot brgs.