DISC BLADES

Phil H

Member
I have a White 271 tandem disc and it is not cutting a space just behind the pulling tong it seems like it is just time to replace the cutting disc's with some new ones. So here is the question, I have some plain disc's and I was thinking I would replace the front row disc's with notched disc blades. It seems the notched blades cut a lot easier and cut deeper. The other disc's behind the front row disc would be plane disc's. The other question is I see a lot of these disc's are made in India or in South America, some are 3.5mm all the way to 6mm. I know the thicker 6mm disc will last longer but they are a lot more expensive. Nichols Tillage Tools seems to be real good quality Shoup is another good supplier. Who would you buy from. If I am going to replace the disc I want to do it right. Thanks....Phil
 
I would go with Agri-Supply for blades and find out exactly what thickness was used on your model disk and not go any thicker or thinner. Thicker might not allow room for the nut on end of axle. But I don't think new blades will get rid of what you are talking about, there were attachments made to do that as the blades are not supposed to touch at any time so you do have that uncut little strip all the time. The only disk that did not do that was a John Deere that one gang slightly overlaped the other but was a cumbersome disk that I never actually saw one. And I never had notched blades so I cannot comment on how they cut but they will not get rid of that little strip.
 

Most conventional disk harrows require a middle breaker attachment to plow out the center ridge. Cut-out disk do penetrate deeper because less area of disk touches the soil vs spherical disk of same diameter. Cut-out disk handle trash better also.
 
The thicker the blade, the less it will penetrate hard ground. Notched disc blades were originally invented to chop cotton stalks, which have a tendency to slip around solid blades. However, notched disc blade are usually thicker to keep them from breaking in rocks and hard soil. If the front gang is going deeper than the rear gang, the disc needs to be leveled - unless you prefer it that way.
 
IIRC it was the Kewanee that had a field cultivator shank mounted in the center to till that undisked area.
 
Thanks to everyone, a lot of good info. and as all ways ideas, and hard to beat...... experience!!!! Thanks.....Phil
 
I just replaced the front ones on my Case disk. The original smooth 20" were wore down to 16/17. I replaced with notched from Shoup. I did reuse two of the old ones on outside next to nut. When you go diagonally through old dead furrow that outside front one really plows up some slabs. The worn outside one should help a little with that.
 
I just ordered a set of 26" notched today.... from Deere. They were cheaper than all the others mentioned. Whether or not they will be of equal quality, I do not know. What I do see on agri-supply is that the indian made blades are about 40% cheaper than the brazilian made.

Rod
 
Did you see that there is a difference in hardness? The harder blade should wear longer but is more likely to break from a rock. Personaly I would rather have the softer blade to keep them from breaking. I have been over the years with a couple of hammers straighten a blade to workable condition from a bend of hitting a rock. Also broke a bunch of blades.
 
There were no hardness specs listed for what I looked at... but I have heard that said. Personally I prefer the harder disc. Sand is predominant here... and I find soft blades bend too much and catch too much rock.

Rod
 
It wasn't much... but 10 bucks a throw on 11 plates adds up. And they have them close at hand with no freight vs waiting 2 weeks plus to get them from their competitor, plus freight...

Rod
 
I agree on notched in front and plain in rear. ASC sells disc parts and I have bought from them many times. Always satisfied. The thinner discs cut easier as they sorta stay sharp on their own since they are thin, unlike the thicker (HD) types that you need to sharpen to keep a cutting edge but if you have rocks you need the width. They stock India and Brazilian discs and I can't tell the difference in performance, just price. Might give them a look.
 
The ground isn't real rocky, and I think the thinner blades would probably work ok. Never thought about sharpening the other blades though...boy that could be a real job. thanks....Phil
 
Thanks Rod, it helps to be able to plan on when you can get stuff, and can start pulling things apart when you order the materials, and not wait around for a week, just more time lost. .........Phil
 
(quoted from post at 11:31:02 04/20/17) Never thought about sharpening the other blades though...boy that could be a real job. thanks....Phil

Back in the 70's-80's when I was employed by a dealer a person would come around every 6 or so months with a disk roller that sharpened disk while on the plow. He only rolled spherical disk not scalloped(cut-out).
 
Those things were listed in the farm catalogs but never ever seen one or heard of anybody that had one. Blades were never sharpened.
 
The White disc we had did the same thing even with new blades. I mounted a HD S tine from TSC onto the frame behind the front gang.
 
Was looking at the center tine; looks like a cultivator spade. I will replace it just because it REALLY needs to be. ........Phil
 

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