Sears 700.141 buzz saw

Would anyone have literature for this saw? It is the sliding table model.

Maybe a good pic of the blade guards.

The saw is in good shape other than the missing blade guard.

Thanks in advance

Link at: http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=9543

Thanks but that is missing the guards too.

I will just fab up my own design

I have one and was actually just using it yesterday, I can email
you some pics if you need

Hopefully this works, ignore the loop that slides with the table and I have it slid in for storage
Untitled URL Link

Thanks,

I never thought about it going thru the loop.

I have drawn up a guard that will cover the bottom and come up under the sliding table.

That will have to have a sawdust outlet on the bottom of course.

Do you have a pic of the mounting brackets???

I have the one behind the blade toward the bottom.

My Sears saw is the tilting table model, not a sliding table model. The blade guard is a loop of flat steel of about 1/4" by 2" over top of blade and about 2" to side of blade (just guessing at these measurements without going out to barn to measure, saw has not been used in 20 years), Dad did not like that much clearance between blade and guard so small pieces could not get caught so he put wood fillers in there to give about a half inch blade clearance. Not sure if in all the paperwork I have a sliding table model is shown or not.

Best shot I have of how the guard mounts hope it helps. Their
isn't much holding it on
Untitled URL Link

(quoted from post at 09:44:00 03/27/17) My Sears saw is the tilting table model, not a sliding table model. The blade guard is a loop of flat steel of about 1/4" by 2" over top of blade and about 2" to side of blade (just guessing at these measurements without going out to barn to measure, saw has not been used in 20 years), Dad did not like that much clearance between blade and guard so small pieces could not get caught so he put wood fillers in there to give about a half inch blade clearance. Not sure if in all the paperwork I have a sliding table model is shown or not.

Click to expand...

That is why I will make a better guard but wanted to see how they were mounted, I could weld brackets on but can make bolt on also.

(quoted from post at 11:38:50 03/27/17) Best shot I have of how the guard mounts hope it helps. Their
isn't much holding it on
Untitled URL Link

Click to expand...

Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!

That big vertical flat stock is what I was thinking about when I make the guard. It looks like that big bar and 2 smaller angle brackets.

This is one I built for another saw, it covers the teeth and helps with kick back at the bottom.

one more

Do you think the green table is original????

Mine is worn some and had moss on it.

The bottom of the table is red, I removed a couple items and red underneath.

It appears to be original paint.

The blade is rough but I have a good one. Rest of the saw is pretty nice.

Great old saw I believe my saw was stored inside and saw
very little use. So yes I very much do think the paint on mine is
all original and the correct colors I believe green is correct for
the table and red for everything else

I am near 70 and have likely cut as much if not more wood with one of those than anyone in here. I started using the saw my granddad bought in 1940 for my dads wedding present. They didn't have a tractor yet and first tried using it with a 1 lunger. That didn't work so granddad bought dad a 34 CC Case tractor. I took it in 68 and used it yearly until 15. Ive got it here with me now, tho Ive quit cutting wood tho Ive got a BUNCHA locust trees thornless that would be great for firewood.
Mine was made in Hillsboro Kans. Its built nearly exactly like the ones in the pics. Ive replaced the original bearings. I think a shield as shown in a pic would do nothing other than get into the blade when/if a pile of wood built up underneath/around the blade and a cut piece hit the shield which in turn hit the blade, and in doing so prove VERY unsafe. Cutting wood myself for the last 30yrs, ive had that happen a few times.
As an add on
A longer belt makes for smoother cutting than a short belt. I found that out when I bought 2 round hay bailer belts. Both were laced, and for the heck of it I put them together. Looked like a threshing belt, BUT It did cut smoother. I assume that the greater length took up the jerks occasionally made when pinching or binding the blade.

Would you have any photos of the sliding track system on that saw? I have a hinged table on mine but I like the looks of that slider. Maybee I can convert my hinge to a slider.

I do not but there is a photo link on the first page that shows some of it

(quoted from post at 12:15:29 05/09/17)
I do not but there is a photo link on the first page that shows some of it

Click to expand...

Hello

Does anyone know how to remove the blade collars?

I have soaked it in Pb Blaster for a week but cannot get it to budge?

Thanks

(quoted from post at 15:43:19 11/18/20)

(quoted from post at 12:15:29 05/09/17)
I do not but there is a photo link on the first page that shows some of it

Click to expand...

Hello

Does anyone know how to remove the blade collars?

I have soaked it in Pb Blaster for a week but cannot get it to budge?

Thanks

Click to expand...

Usually they get sort of rusted on. Apply a good penetrating oil, PB Blaster is not a good one. It's function was originally to soften hardened grease and while I've used a lot of it, it's never been a good "loose juice". Plain old ATF mixed 50/50 with acetone or even diesel works better for me. You can also warm the collar with a propane torch- and I mean "warm", not get glowing red hot! I'd use a brass or copper drift to try turning the collar sideways until it loosens. Once you get the least amount of movement, lube it and turn it back the other way. Just don't go nutso and grab a bigger hammer. Chances are you have cast iron or steel and they don't take a beating very well. I assume you want to get the blade replaced or sharpened. When you get it off, clean the arbor and the collars and get something on them to protect them from rust. The inner part of the collar and arbor interface can use plain old grease. The collar faces should probably be painted or something that is less slippery so you don't have slippage while cutting.