King Plow Co. One Way Plow

I realize that these were made in the 1930-60's window as I read googling the name. Looking for anyone who ran one. I just bought a 4 disc, 3 pt unit today and I'm getting to learn it. My model number is M1754 and I got the 123rd one it looks like.

Have 2 complaints: My rears are 16.9x28 and are setup on 6' max width. The 4 bottom, centered on the drawbar (for a reference) fit right between the rears leaving the right one to pack the fresh dirt from the previous lap. I'm digging in damp but solid black clay so you don't get a lot of material per pass and even with my dropping the left side leveling box to make #4 and the torque balancing wheel dig in better it still basically wants to cut off surface vegetation with the left 2 and dig dirt with the right 2 discs.

Second, with the hard surface on one side and the skewing effect of the oneway, to get succeeding laps to cut right at the cut line of the previous pass, the right front tire is over in freshly plowed clay, packing it into a well baked cow patty consistency.

What it cuts it cuts nicely and flips the sod over covering the Austrian Winter Peas with dirt like it's supposed to.

Tomorrow, I think I'll take it off and put my pasture renovator on and run over the field with it and then come back with the one way.

Thanks for any input,
Mark

Mark
Can you post a photos especially from the rear of your tractor & plow?
Jim

Yes sir. Will go out and do it now. Should have the uploading and all figured out directly. Thanks.

(quoted from post at 14:49:34 03/17/17) Yes sir. Will go out and do it now. Should have the uploading and all figured out directly. Thanks.

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I started out with the frame level but rear blades were not cutting as I mentioned earlier so I tilted it till they started cutting at least enough of a groove that the counter balance wheel had something to push against. Wound up with it tilted as you see it for best results so far.

As stated, I removed the dolly wheel which improved. Was puzzled about it as it was surely designed to be run on the ground with the plow in operation as it is extremely heavy duty and the tire is laminated tire material like the tires on the rear of shredders.

Just for grins, I thought I'd put a piece of the "soil" I'm trying to cut with it. This piece sat overnight and dried out somewhat....like a brick. When plowing you can at least break it and pull it apart due to slight dampness.

Thanks for tuning in,
Mark

Have you tried offsetting the lower link arms to the right a hole or two on the sway control links?

Just a thought

Put left rear and left front tire on some of those solid concrete blocks equal to your desired plowing depth. Adjust plow so all discs
are level to the ground left to right. The furrow wheel should be well dug in to hold the tractor from skewing causing front wheel to
be on the newly turned ground. The furrow wheel has an adjusting bolt for depth. Does it have another adjustment for skewing?

Mark
My suggestion would be to widen your tractor's wheel tread then center plow behind your tractor similar to the way the plow was designed to operate. From photo it appears rear wheels could be swapped from side to side for a wider wheel spacing. Getting plow centered behind tractor will change symetrics of 3 pt hitch.

FYI your plow is a disk breaking plow not a one way AKA as disk tiller

"FYI your plow is a disk breaking plow not a one way AKA as disk tiller". Yes sir. Grin. Did I "mis-assume" the the JD version had the name
copyrighted, or is it the name for all of them. Grin.

Thanks,
Mark

I thought about it but figured the way I was skewing, trying to get #1 under the rt. tread would just make the skewing worse.....but I'm just
starting the learning curve. May do it and see.

Thanks for your time.
Mark

Mark
As far as I know disk plow wasn't copyrighted by JD.
Jim

Ok on the blocks. On furrow wheel yes it does. Socket where wheel assy pivots is well worn (sloppy) so I'd have to slide in a ferrule to tighten it up which will come later....trying to get ground ready before spring rains (fingers crossed) hit me so that all I have to do is drill and pack.

This plow was well greased telling me the PO kept up with the maintenance) when I bought it and obviously well used. I am hesitant to start changing things just to be changing. Thought I'd try the POs settings first and ask some questions on here. I guess the current task is find out just what those were. I'm assuming that, like the moldboard, the right tires of the tractor sit just to the right of the groove the furrow wheel ran in, on bare ground with the rolled topsoil to the right. Plowing would be in a CCW direction around the field????

Thanks for your time,

Mark

Yes right hand tractor tires are suppose to be in furrow on 2nd pass. I always plowed CCW except when building up terraces. It surprises me your disk blades will scour without scrapers as the soil looks very damp.

If you chose not to change tractor wheel tread setting you could entertain the idea of sliding each disk hanger further back on main frame.

Right side tires of the tractor should be in the bottom of the groove (furrow) left by the last disk. The Tail wheel should keep the tractor from skewing which causes the front tire to be on the new tilled soil. The tail wheel exerts a LOT of force to keep the tractor and implement going straight. It is a very important adjustment.

Thanks for all the replies. I had a good day of it after all.

1. Took the plow off and put on the Hay King renovator and cut everything up running in the same direction as I would later be plowing. Then reinstalled the plow and went to work. Made a huge difference.
2. Raised the 3 pt lift arms slightly...not running as deep. Was still cutting a good roll but seemed to balance things out better. Skewing decreased significantly.
3. Was surprised that Diff. Lock. didn't help a bit. 4 wd, as you'd expect surely did.
4. I stopped about once an hour for clogs that stopped the discs from rotating. All of the causes were jammed up pea vegetation and damp dirt mix jammed between the disc and the shank at the main boom. As is the design, yes the clay was sticky but there was enough dry matter from the surface and enough impact of new soil against the dishes, with them being propelled by ground friction that it kept them clean on the cutting surface. That's the main reason the Moldboard doesn't work.
5. Attempting to move the plow over from center, to the right wheel, just a couple of inches caused interference with the Rt. tire from the 3 pt lower arm sway bar and caused the skewing to worsen. So I put it back. It's setup with the 3 pt bracket centered on the tractor center line. It may not have looked like it in the pictures, but when running it is.....with the lower arm lower as shown in the pics.
6. The wheels are dished out as far as they will go which isn't like a Ford where you have 3-4 different mechanisms you can employ to get a wider stance. Only one is the big dish between the hub and the wheel rims which gives you a couple inches max.
7. The offset wheel could stand to be deeper a few inches. I'll work on that before I use it again.

Again thanks much for your time and suggestions.

Mark

Most disk breaking plows had the option of scrapers to keep disk clean in damp soil conditions. From viewing one of your photo's I think rear wheels not including center part could be swapped from side to side for a wider stance. Note the distance where I attempted to draw a blue arrow. Does your operators manual not have a section on wheel tread settings? I know my Kubota OM has such a section. As I stated earlier I think moving disk standards back on frame would be easier than swapping tires side to side.

Thanks Jim for your followup.

I see what you are talking about from the photo.....that I obviously overlooked my options. One of my questions is the 16.9's may be too wide to
follow in the groove properly like a 12.4 would. Don't know what the PO(s) were running for tire width.

On scrapers, the few clogs I had were between the back of the discs and the standard up at the boom. Faces stayed cleaned off.

Since you are staying with me on this, my 3 pt hookup was vertical looking from the side as I assumed it would be when the implement was
designed. I had dropped the lift arm "level box" 20 turns to get the left side down (as shown in the pics) so that the last two discs could get
involved and do their part.

Today I was thinking about bringing the leveling box back up to even up the lift arms looking from the rear and extending the 3rd member to
push the rear of the beam down like I was getting with the leveling box. I have several hyd. cylinders I'm not using and I might just hook one up
to the 3rd member and move it in and out and see what happens with the arms level.

Mark

Mark
Altering the lift links of the draft arms levels the plow side to side especially after 1st pass & RH tractor tires are in furrow, while altering the length of center link levels plow front to rear

Yes, Roger mentioned that and it worked. I was amazed at how much a small change in the length of the 3rd member made in the ability of the
tail wheel to catch the groove. Course it's just length A vs length B x distance moved.

Due to the tire width, I never could get a nice clean rut to run in like you see with moldboards. I got it torn up nicely and started back with the
offset plow dragging the spike harrow, to smooth it out where it was dryer.

Funny thing happened. The field is like most, odd shaped, and upon getting to the final corner, I made several loops to finish up. All the
looping where I ran "against the grain" if you will, on unplowed ground where the plowed ground was on the left and I put the left tractor wheel
along the spoil dirt, turned out perfect, no skewing, no tire marks, nice level cutting of each disc. I know it's going against the grain, but I wish I
would have had that happen at the start of the exercise. May have stumbled onto something. Will have to wait till next season.

Thanks,
Mark