Drill for Soybeans, maybe wheat

2510Paul

Well-known Member
What would be a good drill for soybeans and wheat? I am thinking 7.5" for wheat and 15" for soybeans so I would have to be able to block off every other hole. Single disc or double disc?

I am thinking NOT no-til, I would go in front with likely a disc to loosen the soil surface. I would pull behind a Brillion crusher to level or firm the soil.

I am thinking something like JD 8300 or similar IH/Case-IH. These seem to be heavier than the one's around when I was growing up. If I am off base here please re-direct me.

Yes, needs to be an economical way to put in a soybean crop.

Paul
 
Got a Great Plains 20' no-tll drill with coulter cart. It is on 10' centers and plant wheat and beans for myself and some neighbors. 1170 Case runs away with it at 6 mph, but have the 2470 Case on it because of power shift to turn on the ends. Easy to replace discs when needed because of how high it lifts.
a152602.jpg

a152603.jpg
 
I have a 510 IH. 6" centers. Leave it at 6" for both wheat and beans. Double disks with press wheels behind. Works great. Make sure not to plant beans to thick. If drilled beans look nice when they come up, then you planted to heavy.
 
Thanks Casecollectorsc. Those are great pictures of a great outfit. I only have to do 80-110 acres so I am thinking 10-12'. Paul
 
I am in Western Wisconsin. I have read 15" is optimum to help deal with white mold. That is where the 15" came from. One neighbor uses 30" rows for obvious reasons. Another uses a No-till JD at 7.5" but in my mind he really does not need the expensive No-till because he always harvests the prior year corn stalks and discs. Perhaps it is because that is what is available to him to rent. Paul
 
Not hijacking the thread. Figure this fits right in and may be a question others are wondering too....so why not ask it?

I think I am going to plant beans this spring for organic rehab; Nitrogen fixation plus humus. I planted Austrian Winter Peas with this drill last fall and they are doing fantastic. I'm really after the N nodules on the roots, not especially the beans as I am going to run the shredder (rotary mower) over them when the time comes and then rototill them in.

Mine is a 1960's vintage JD Galvanized hopper, about 7' hopper width, no fert. appl. no platform on the back, 7" spacing, dual coulters and 3 loop chain for leveling. I have a chart on the bottom side of one lid for slot size per grain selected....I guess beans are on the chart. Figuring about 40#/acre. It'll drill around 1" in my prepared clay soil on the heaviest spring setting. Since I'm after the plant and not the bean, thicker is fine; I don't really care about the beans..........I think? Do I?
So sir, for what I want to do, am I ok or do I need, would I do better, spaced out at 14"?

Thanks,
Mark
 
i haD deere 750, great plains swivel coulter unit and last one was actually one made by marliss/sukup. it hands down was the best unit. i hAD it on a coulter cart which i doubled the coulters. went right into standing stalks planted soybeans. right into bean stubble for rye and seeding alfalfa. you could use the bug box for alfalfa also. i loved that unit. meters were adjusted by big bolt not a flimsy lever where you set it then came back little and hoped you were close.
 
The IH is a great drill maybe better than the Deere with soybeans.I am in southern WI and almost everyone is now 30 inch rows. A few big farmers run 15 inch. In talking back in forth there is very little difference in yeilds. You could buy a 7000 4 row wide planter and have it cut down to 30 inch rows and an older drill for less money than a good late model drill with press wheels. The planter with radial meters is much more accurate at seed placement. A grain drill is little more than a controlled spill. With a planter you get good depth control and constant spacing and placement and it is easier to get exact population. 30 inch rows are more fun to combine and spray as well. I paid $2000 for a 7000 planter and sold the corn meters and dry fertlizer off for what it cost me to have local welding shop cut down the frame and purchase radial bean meters. You cut off the rockshaft brackets and each side of the wheel frame and weld everything back then cut the ends off. Tom
 
Texasmark1, I don't have the experience to comment on your question. Maybe someone else can comment. If you don't have trouble with white mold and given your goal of nitrogen fixation, what you are doing makes sense to me. But again, I am not the expert.

I will do some Goggling so see if anything turns up.

Thanks for your response, I always learn something.

Paul
 
Here is an interesting article on Nitrogen Fixation:

http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_a/A129/

My Dad would never harvest the corn stalks. He always said they were a way to put something back. Looks like he was right.

Paul
 
Wow, I Goggled "How to maximize nitrogen fixation with soybeans?". I got lots of interesting hits. To much to read right now.

Paul
 
I posted this somewhere in the last couple of days. Our soil here is heavy clay. Percolation is slim to none. County Ag. agent harps on stubble tillage for better humus and improved soil texture, air and water percolation. Obviously plowing in corn stubble is an excellent way to improve the soil and make use of the fertilizer that was applied to the field that the corn crop(s) didn't use which will be there for future crop usage.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top