MF12 square baler needle timming

Grassy135

New User
I've just purchased a MF12 square baler and I'm trying to get the timming right and I've noticed that the needle drive arm is lagging approx 1/8 of a turn when the knotter clutch is disengaged. (The stop dog is in cotact with the metering pivot assembley.) All roll pins and keys appear to be ok. Does anybody have any thoughts on how to fix this?
 

I've been into timing of the similar #9 MF, there is a lag some what when the knotter trips before the arm gets activated.

The only timing is having the chains all tight and getting the bolts in the packer sprocket in the right holes.

You should be able to turn the machine over by hand and have it tie before you put power to it.
 

Timing instructions should be printed on the side of the chamber near the drive chain unless some numb skull painted over them.
 
Thanks for the reply. I've checked the chain timing and tension and all are good. My problem is that due to the lag in the needle drive arm the
needles are protruding 3" to 4" into the chamber when the clutch is disengaged. Fig 90 in the owners manual shows the arm and the swing
frame connecting rod being in a straight line, however mine is not.
 

I've never timed the needles on a MF sq baler but I assume they time similar to JD or NH sq balers.

With the plungerhead on compression stroke the needles should be flush with the bottom of bale chamber channels when plungerhead is 1-1/2'' from needle points. When chain is installed be sure needle lift trip dog is against lobe inside clutch hub on needle lift shaft.

I have no idea how to adjust hay feeder mechanism but I could probably determine how if I had a MF baler to look at.
 
(quoted from post at 08:33:13 02/20/17) I've just purchased a MF12 square baler and I'm trying to get the timming right and I've noticed that the needle drive arm is lagging approx 1/8 of a turn when the knotter clutch is disengaged. (The stop dog is in cotact with the metering pivot assembley.) All roll pins and keys appear to be ok. Does anybody have any thoughts on how to fix this?

If you don't have one, get a manual. Guess work on timing a baler often leads to very expensive problems.
 
Drive chain teeth position has nothing to do with timing a MF 9/12

Our 9 blew up the packer rod completely and broke the chains and other general carnage and I had to build one baler from 2 so I timed it after putting all the chains back on. Loose chains cause timing issues, not missed teeth or "wrong length chains" (on this baler)

Are you talking about the thread end rod and the arm on the end of knotter not being in a straight line? Will it lock down right if you remove the threaded rod? (rod length might be binding)

The knotter drive clutch is what controls the needle activation. If the approx 1/2" x 3/4" little spring is missing that can ause the clutch not to lock out right.

Otherwise there is wear INSIDE the drive house (knotter comes clear with 4 bolts and some springs to inspect) I've had ours apart more than I ever wanted.
 

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