Cordwood saw belt

I just bought a cord wood saw and pulley restored and in great shap . Wondering if any New Englander's know where I can get a new belt made. It also came with a box of lasers. The old belt that came with it is worn out . Thanks
 
The type of saw, front mount, rear mount, stand alone all will influnce the type of belt. And then the width of the pully as to width of belt it will take. So different places will have different types of belt avaible. I have heard round baller used belts will work for the shorter like in the mounted saw but then I do not know the widths they are made in and what width your saw will take. Some saws would only want a 5" belt, others will want a 6" belt And what I assume was a round baler belt I just saw in a store was I think either a 7 or 8". So what size do you need?
 
Thanks it came with an old belt That I believe is the right one . The saw is a Dearborn 22-44 and I have a 54 NAA. Can't get to it now but will get the measurements later . I would like to find a places local if I can and don't mine driving a little bit nothing like a road trip let Never no what I might find
 
If you are looking for a laced belt (rather than an exact length endless belt), do you have any farm equipment dealers or farm supply stores that deal with belts for round hay balers?
 
Try Hit and Miss Enterprizes Orwell, Ohio Phone (440) 272-5335. They have flat belting in different widths in any lengths you want and plys. They have the old style belting and will put the lacing on it for you.
 
The correct belt, per the Dearborn 22-44 Parts Manual, is 5" X 8' 6". You can find copies of the Parts and Owners Assembly & Operating manuals in the "Manuals" section on the xxNxx xxTractorxx xxClubxx website. Just leave out the x's or google it. Good luck.
 
Made me wonder if Dad's splicing kit is still in the old machine shed at the farm. I doubt that my younger brother ever used it after he took over the farm.
 
Ok clam digger, if you are on the coast of NH. I have the tool and am just between the coast and concord. Would be willing to have you come up and install your lacing clips
 
What I did was buy 2 USED round bailer belts. They were already laced. I origionally intended to only use one, but that was too close to my wood shed, so I used both and that put me a LONG way away. Thing I noticed is that the saw ran smoother. I figured that the great length took up some of the jerkiness while sawing. I noticed that the hammermill ran smoother also. BUT its a pain to roll up after use.
 
Well then again I think tractor supply sells the smaller version of the tool that fits in a vise. Probably cheaper than you shipping me your belt:)
 
I have one of those. Have had it for years. not worth a damn. Ive gotton a local tractor dealership to redo 2 of my belt lacings since ive had it. Cost me $20 ea, but they worked. I put my clamp in my leg vice. Put a pipe on the handle and cenched it down. Found I couldn't hold the belt straight and steady and get a good clamp on it. Once done wrong, its done. Then one side tears out as it isn't straight, and its near impossible to get a rod through both sets of clamps.
 
(quoted from post at 21:56:36 12/23/16) I have one of those. Have had it for years. not worth a damn. Ive gotton a local tractor dealership to redo 2 of my belt lacings since ive had it. Cost me $20 ea, but they worked. I put my clamp in my leg vice. Put a pipe on the handle and cenched it down. Found I couldn't hold the belt straight and steady and get a good clamp on it. Once done wrong, its done. Then one side tears out as it isn't straight, and its near impossible to get a rod through both sets of clamps.

If the lacings are pinned in correctly and you have a good square cut on the belt and you can't get things to stay squared up, you probably need a 2nd person to hold the belt till you get it started. Once it's started straight it has to stay that way, it has no where to go.
 
As Rick said Belt length is important. They were built for the earlier model N tractor were you needed to keep your pto engaged to operate the hydraulics to lift the saw for transportation. when raised the belt would slack so the blade would stop spinning. You will not have this problem with the NAA cause you can disengage the pto and still raise up the hydraulic lift arm. Something to consider is, your NAA would have a 1 1/8" pto shaft which will work with the pto pulley for that saw. If your pto shaft has been changed out to the now standard 1 3/8" shaft than you will have to add and adapter to make it work,as I have done on my 950. This will chance the length of the belt. You can also switch to a 1 3/8" belt pulley but they are getting harder to find and increases the cost.

Kirk
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