How big is your garden
Yes, IF you plow a piece of ground you will want to disc it good, then harrow it afterwards for a fine finish. Doing these things when the grounds dry will ensure a good seed bed.
First hook the plow to your drawbar. That's the one pointing out in back of your tractor. Have it set dead center if possible. A little slop one way or the other means nothing.
Hook onto the plow and drive in a straight a line as possible until the plow is dead center in line with your tractor. The inside of your right rear wheel should also match with the inside of the right wheel on the plow.
If it dosnt, either slide your rear tractor wheel in or out if your tractor is capable of this, or turn your rear tractor wheel around if that will make the inside of the tire even with the inside of the right plow wheel
IF that dosent work, you will have to make adjustments on your hitch on the plow
the hitch is set up in a triangle. You can adjust the sideways drawbar one way or the other, and if that works, fine, BUT you may have to adjust also the hitch bar, and its brace bar to get the plow to set in line with the rear wheel of your tractor and yet still be in a straight line behind it.
You can tell if you've achieved this by plowing a strip and looking back while doing so to see if the plow is indeed traveling behind in a straight line OR if the rear end is pointing off to one side. Continued adjustments WILL cure this problem.
As said in another post. Tie a stiff wire onto the end of your rope and bend a hook in it, and fasten it where you can more or less easily reach it. Which ever way you find your self turning the most, right or left, fasten the trip rope somewhere on that side.
MAKE SURE to leave enough rope so that when the plow is tripped, the rope dosnt get tight and trip itself back out when you go into a dip with the tractor. Don't have it so loose that it tangles up with the hitch in any way, but have it just above the hitch when tripped. Id guess get a 10ft rope to use for a trip rope.
IF the spring on the trip lever, which is attached to the inside of the L front wheel, setting on the tractor and looking back, is weak, youll need to replace it as if it IS weak the plow will not stay tripped either in or out, but bounce around the field like the hunchback of Notre Dame. Don't make the spring so stiff that it is a trial to pull it while on the tractor, but make it comfortable, but with needing a slight tug to pull it.
When tripped, your plow may drop right into the ground without moving, OR it may drop while moving as my IHC steel wheel plow does. Either way, makes no difference, but when tripping make sure you pull the rope and quickly let go of it as if you hold onto it for a second while the plow is moving it will go down then immediatly back up.
SINCE it hasn't been greased likely in decades, put grease in each zerk until you see grease come out somewhere other than the zerk. Its a good idea to replace the zerks so as to make sure that the grease is getting where it belongs. It likely takes 14in zerks. IF pulling the zerks, dig around with an ice pick or small screw driver to break up any grease at that point.
The rolling cutters should be around 2in forward, and around 2in above the tip of the plow share. They can be adjusted by loosening 2 bolts on each shaft holding the cutters. They should be either directly in line with the land slide, OR slightly to the inside of the landslide, but no more than an inch inside. Different people have different ways. You should be plowing between 4 and 6in deep. Lower and crank the levers until you can see that that is what your leaving behind on the furrow wall.
When opening up a field, I raise the R wheel, the furrow wheel, as much as possible, as it is traveling on top of the land rather than inside of the furrow like it will on all other rounds. If you do this, then, after making the 2 outside furrows/trips/one pass on either end, then raise it say 3 notches to see if it is making the furrow deep enough and that the plow is level.
IF the adjustment rods are gone from the hand lever on the adjustment lever on the right side, bailing wire doubled and a small turnbuckle in the middle twisted snug with a small long bolt placed in the center of the turnbuckle to keep it from untwisting works, BUT you can find in here someone who is making replacements, and they aren't all that expensive.
As your shares are already painted, don't remove the paint, the ground will do that while plowing. When finished, either oil the shares if your going to continue to use it in a day or 2 or repaint it if your done with it for the season.
IF you find that, after making all the adjustments, and that the plow is doing good work, BUT, you have trouble if you make a turn, take out the pins holding the drawbar straight back of the tractor, allowing the drawbar to swing from side to side. That will make turning MUCH easier. Same if you have a pull type disc.
IF you get a harrow, Be VERY careful to make a hitch out of quarter inch cable, and make a V up to the distance from the drawbar at its furtherist to one side or the other, and a foot beyond the outside of a rear tire. Place a cable clamp there to make the hitch look like a Y. That way, if you turn short while harrowing, you wont have the cable catching the rear tire and bring the harrow up to meet you, as most old farmers have done in their youth.
That's about the best I can do for you. Ive been plowing and discing and harrowing since I was 8, and im 69 now, and still doing it so, hopefully, I know a bit about it.
Good luck, and tell us how it turns out for you.
^D 
