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John Deere balers

The (later), FASTER "336" was still available with an engine, don't know what year that ended, or if any later models had an engine option.
 
Via the parts catalog, it looks like the 336 and 346 were the last JD balers available with a Wisconsin 4 cylinder engine. Could be added to later balers probably using parts from a 336 or 346 to mount the engine, etc.

24T is from the '60's. 300 series is much simpler!
 
I've got a 24T and it's a good baler. I put a #30 hydraulic thrower on it and it works great. Smaller capacity baler when compared to the newer 300 series, which others will say as well, but my 24T works well with my other smaller equipment. They are easy to work on and most parts are available either new from Deere or on parts machines.
 

One pitfall of a 24T is the adjustment bridge on plungerhead with a wear pad on each end held on by 1 bolt that have been known to come up AWOL while baling. I still remember selling these replacement parts when I was employed at JD dealer. If I was wanting a JD sq baler I'd look for a 336/346 or newer model that has brgs on PH.



2 ea-E15459 Pad - PAD, ADD 55.23 USD 110.46 USD
1 ea-E18887 Support - SUPPORT, ADD 186.34 USD
 
(quoted from post at 06:14:49 12/09/16)
One pitfall of a 24T is the adjustment bridge on plungerhead with a wear pad on each end held on by 1 bolt that have been known to come up AWOL while baling. I still remember selling these replacement parts when I was employed at JD dealer. If I was wanting a JD sq baler I'd look for a 336/346 or newer model that has brgs on PH.



2 ea-E15459 Pad - PAD, ADD 55.23 USD 110.46 USD
1 ea-E18887 Support - SUPPORT, ADD 186.34 USD
Click to expand...


Bought a parts machine this summer, the bridges were "safety wired" with baling wire to the plunger head. Soooo I got some of my stock of stainless steel lashing wire and copied the field fix. Pitfall averted? Like Kerwin, it works very well with my 1020. Mark

2 ea-EIEIO Wire- WIRE ADD $0.00 USD
 
(quoted from post at 10:39:48 12/09/16)
Bought a parts machine this summer, the bridges were "safety wired" with baling wire to the plunger head. Soooo I got some of my stock of stainless steel lashing wire and copied the field fix. Pitfall averted? Like Kerwin, it works very well with my 1020. Mark

2 ea-EIEIO Wire- WIRE ADD $0.00 USD
Click to expand...

What you stated is true but most JD 24T baler operators don't attach a wire/chain to to the bridges :wink:
 
Tx Jim, you have been super helpful in the past when I was reviving the 24t I acquired. That baler is going to finish me out, first and last baler I'll ever need. all I'm doing is enough
on a corner of my place to feed my critters +/- 350 bales each year. Sounds
like I need to safety wire the adjuster assembly (bridge). I know the part
you all are talking about but would you (or anyone else) have a photo or
diagram of how to best do it. Thanks again for all your help. Jim.
 

JLeus
I'm glad I could assist you. I wasn't trying to imply that 24T aren't good balers as they are good balers but I don't like the bridge design. I have no photo of securing bridge with wire but IIRC 1 end of wire was attached to bridge & other end of wire to plungerhead.

My guess is the reason the single bridge bolt bolt is baler was operated with way too much slack between adjusting pads and guide rails. So If one keeps PH adjusted correctly one will most likely not have bridge problems.
 
I didn't take it that way, good or bad, it is what it is and it's what I
have. Thanks for your help once again.
 
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