Replacing parts on a rake-tedder

Jim Wolf

Member
The unit is a New Idea No. 4 - Lot R163 - R88057.

I broke a tooth bar. The pipe is about 10' 6" and so it is hard to find a pipe that long locally. I am told the pipe is one inch schedule 20 plain steel. I am hoping one of you has an extra or knows where I can buy steel pipe of that length.

I also need a tooth bar bearing (#2-ME). This is the one that is on the center and the right of the tooth bar. And with it a pair of bearing caps (#028-ME).

I sure would appreciate you help with this.

Jim Wolf in Coventry, CT
 
Is the bar rusted broke? What reason do you have to replace it? A 1" solid bar just fits inside and I have taken a piece that reaches for or more tooth spacing and just sliped it inside and hold it in place with the tooth bolts. I may have some parts come spring but not sure as of now. I am still in Ohio. I think we did some business a few years back.
 
Hi Leroy
"I think we did some business a few years back." Yes we did.

I will have to look at the pipe to see if that would work. There was some bending but I might be able to straighten it.
Jim
 
Having several straightened right now. Have 4 of those rakes under rebuilding as of now. Some of the real disks have to be completely be rebuilt, one that the tilt of the teeth works on the center was completely tore out, and others completely mashed from being wrecked. Evidently after was parked from the front disk getting tore up somebody hit it in the back end and I even had to replace part of the frame, used that from a parts only 3 bar. Working outside only so the rebuilding is about over for the winter as had first snow 2 days ago, just a skifter that was gone 5 hours later but still first and down to 24 this morning. As far as that bar I have had where there were bad sections that I had to replace and I would cut out a bad section halfway between where the tooth bolted in and take a section of anouther bad bar and put in, sometimes using just one bar inside if it was long enough or at times I have used two pieces. Doing that I never tried welding the bar. And I have not gotten any complaints from the dealer that got all of the rakes. The bars are the same size on The New Idea, McCormick, John Deere, Case, Massey Harris and others so I have no problem finding good sections to use. I do have extra sections of bars as well. I have a line on a couple of other rakes that I may be able to get and after that I should know if I have any extra complete bars or not. The bar bearings are the same for all 3 spots on the bar, just the back one has like a freeze plug with a 1/8" hole in it to keep more grease in but a bearing with out that plug will work as well. The tooth adjusting bearing is a short bearing. All of the bearings like to loose the threads for the grease fittings so that the short threads on that 1/4/28 thread grease fitting pops out , I have not yet found a cure for that, that is where I loose the bearings for no grease fitting. And that bearing is such a hard steel you cannot rethread them. I have not had to check on new parts for the bearings but I think the bearing clamp might be avaible new and there is a newer style that was made that was stronger than the orignals. And they like to spread so they do not hold the bearing tight so for that if you look at where the bolt holes are to hold them on you will see that if you hold both halves together the top, grease fitting area it apart, for that I just put them in a vice and using a hammer just rebend the flange part that the bolt holes are in back to just a bit past new position to hold that bearing tight. I have no idea how many rakes I have worked on these last few years but it probly is now getting up to the fourty range. I have put 4 bar reals in New Idea and John Deere 3 bar frames and even before I found out it was a Massey real put it in a McCormick frame. The bars are not pipe size but tubing size but if needed if you have the crank end left that could be welded on a new piece of tubing but unless you have the proper jig to drill the holes in the bars or the splice bar that I do not have I take things to an Amish machine shop that has the proper jig to do that. After getting the holes properly drilled for the teeth in a new piece of steel getting the crank part welded in proper place would be the hardest to do. I did not get any work done in 15 having lost my wife in March of that year then being involved in 3 auto wrecks later in year, none of them being my fault and earlier this year I was still trying to recover from that. And at 73 I am feeling my age so not able to work fast or long at a time. So just give me time and I think I can find you those parts. Lester
 
Jim, just found out today those bearing clamps are being made new again, Have no idea what the price is.
 

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