Problem with 3 point hitch - draw pins too short

denglish · Nov 5, 2016

Hi There,

I'm looking for a little help. I bought a three point bottom plow to use with my Farmall M that has a Saginaw 3 point on it.

The problem I am having is that the draw pins are just a little too short to come through the ball joint on the lift arms.

The ball connectors have different two sized holes and the smaller size matches well with the pin diameter of the implement but the length is just a little too short to extend through the hole far enough to put a pin through.

denglish · Nov 5, 2016

flying belgian · Nov 5, 2016

Looks like you have plenty of length to drill a new hole for the clip.

Adirondack case guy · Nov 5, 2016

I disagree! the after market 3pt hitch has CatII width balls on end. Grind down the sides or notch the outside of the ball where the pin goes that have the CatI pin diamiter. There is not enough meat left on pin for another hole.
Loren.

denglish · Nov 5, 2016

Yes, I guess I could though I would be drilling on the tapered portion which presents some challenge.

The two pins are at the end of a cross bar that can come out. I could try drilling the ends or maybe I will take it to a machine shop and see if they will mill the bar back a quarter inch or so. If I did that the existing holes would then be exposed.

denglish · Nov 5, 2016

That's an interesting idea Adirondack, but I'm thinking I might see if I can get a shop to mill the ends of the bar, so the pin is longer. I am hesitant to alter the ball connectors.

It also occurred to me that perhaps I can just buy a round cross bar of the same length but with the correct pins on the end.

Does anybody know a company that has bars like this for three point implements.

denglish · Nov 5, 2016

Here is the plow. Looks nice on the M.

Ozlander · Nov 5, 2016

What I did was cut the short pin off and weld a longer pin on.

Dave O'Brien · Nov 5, 2016

I think your idea of having the ends of the shaft milled might be the best option. Another option could be cutting the existing pins down and welding a longer piece cut from a top link pin or longer lift pin. Although it isn't a welding job just anyone can do.

flying belgian · Nov 5, 2016

I'm not familiar with that hitch but don't you pull a pin out of the sway bars to enable you to spread arms and slip over imp. bar? Once it is slipped on you put pin back in sway bar and it should stay on there even
without a pin through bar. So all you need is drill a small hole and put a hairpin through it. What's going to make it want to come off there?

denglish · Nov 5, 2016

Yes. I understand what you are saying Belgian. The sway bars provide quite a bit of inward pressure. Even though I can lift the plow and drive around with it, I'm afraid I still need a pretty good-sized pin to actually plow. Now that I think a little more about it, Adirondack's suggestion of putting a notch in the ball might be best. I could probably do the welding job just fine, but maybe it is better to try putting in a notch first.

RandyB(MI) · Nov 5, 2016

I would do just that. Take to your nearest High School that has a machine shop/skilled trades classes. They don't charge labor and you need no parts so FREE! Pretty hard to screw up also.

Moonlite37 · Nov 5, 2016

Are you sure you set the wheels in close enough to use that plow?

denglish · Nov 5, 2016

(quoted from post at 19:48:56 11/05/16) Are you sure you set the wheels in close enough to use that plow?

No. They are roughly seven feet apart. How should they be set?

Dave Sherburne, NY · Nov 6, 2016

I've never used a sway bar when plowing and never heard of anyone else using one, except for people who don't know how to adjust a plow. What size is your plow, 14 or 16 inch ?
Center of tractor to inside of right rear wheel is 25 1/2" for 14 inch plow and 27 1/2" for a 16" plow.

Leroy · Nov 6, 2016

As I said on TT that plow is made for only a 52" wheel tread so that is 26" from center of tractor and that includes the tire so to inside edge of tire that is only 20" and that plow is not made so you can use any measurement except the 52" center to center of the tire, size of bottoms makes no difference in the way that plow can be set. That insormation on different size bottoms and number of bottoms to find center of draft does not work with that Dearborn or a Ferguson plow of that style. You have to get the rear wheels set at that 52" that was normal everyday work setting on all the Ford and Ferguson tractors. And that plow was only built to stand the power of a 25 max pto hp tractor, not the close to 40 that you have in that M so you could very likely hook soes not have trip bottoms that you need with your hitch on that M, on the Ford it was made for if you hooked a tock it would make the draft on the hitch work in that it would take all weight off of rear wheels so they would spin so it would not bend a beam. Forget trying to use that plow behind the M you will never make it work correct and safe. You would have to narrow your wheels down about 2 1/2 feet to get it narrow enough.

Leroy · Nov 6, 2016

Your plow was made for the Ford 8N tractor but the Ford 9N & 2N and Ferguson TE20 & TO20 were the same, The Ferguson TO30 was not yet built nor the Ford NAA and those were the only tractors built at that time with a 3 point hitch, John Deere had not yet started to build the 40 that was the first Deere that would be capabile of using that plow and Oliver with the S55 was still a few years out. I think the Moline BF might have been avaible with a hitch that would work with that plow, When the Ford NAA and the Ferguson TO30 & the TO35 came that plow would still work with them. Forget about trying to modify for the lift balls to fit, it will not work with your tractor at any time. Not what you want to hear but the facts. The other posters that were trying to figure out how to get things long enough for the pins to go in just are not familuar with that plow, You need a 15 year newer plow to make that hitch work and for an M it should be a 3 bottom with front weights. Or a pull (drag) type that they were designed for.

RandyB(MI) · Nov 6, 2016

Well, Leroy, that's all good info you gave. The reason the rest of us stuck to the "short pin" issue is that is what his question was about. He never asked our opinion about using that plow on his Farmall. I have gotten some bad replies when I deviate from issue the poster has asked about in the past. I try not to judge what a persons intent is or his knowlege of that intent. We are, in fact, "familiar" with that plow and it's intended use/tractor but what he does with it or tries to do with it was never the issue here. He's got it and intends to use it. May not work perfect but I think he's aware of that fact. Just clearing up why our posts were what they were. All is good. RB

Leroy · Nov 6, 2016

All I can say is if he tries to use that combination he is libable to kill himself, if that is want he wants then he should just go for it.

Traditional Farmer · Nov 7, 2016

Just because its a 3 pt hitch plow doesn't mean you can successfully use it on any 3 pt tractor and it won't work right on the M.

denglish · Nov 7, 2016

(quoted from post at 10:31:55 11/06/16) Thanks for the good information. I'll look for a different plow or find an 8N to use with the plow!

Leroy · Nov 8, 2016

Glad you listend, want you to be able to stay on the site.

Problem with 3 point hitch - draw pins too short

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