(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

Brush Hog - Adding a slip clutch

T

The Famous Grouse

Member
A question about brush hogs, guys. I'm looking for about a 6 foot model for my Deere 2010.

I notice some sellers have added a slip clutch to the brush hog already while others don't have one.

1. I thought that a slip clutch was pretty much mandatory for a brush hog unless you're basically mowing your front yard with it. Am I not understanding what these things do? I thought that basically without a slip clutch a guy would be risking his gear box big time if he hit something solid while mowing. Yet is seems like a lot of for-sale units don't have them.

2. Where does a slip clutch generally install on a brush mower?

3. Do some brands of brush mowers have some kind of factory-installed slip clutch such that adding an aftermarket one is not necessary?

Many thanks.

Grouse
 
Mine is landpride I had a john deere
before the slip clutch would be on the pto
shaft before the gear box. That's one
thing I forgot to look at when I got the
land pride the slip clutch was nice as
long as you remember to check and see that
it's free. The shear bolt is a cheaper way
to go first problem i had it was a rental
and somebody had put a harden bolt found
that out when I broke the p.t.o knuckle.
You learn tricks in time watching so the
shear bolt doesn't loosen is one the
second is put the 3 point in float so it
rides over stuff better. The slip clutch
is the best way to go you don't have to
worry every time you doze off and hit a
mound of dirt that it's going to shear
off.
 
I have a Woods 5 ft hog and the slip clutch slides onto the input shaft of the gear box and is held in place with a grade 8 fine thread bolt with locking nut. The other side attaches to the universal joint.
 
I ran both types and prefer a Grade 2 shear bolt. Archives have past discussions on why a 2 rather than an 8 even though my JD round baler specifies an 8.

The bolt is the bolt. No adjustments, no weather related problems...rust, no work one minute and slips the next etc. etc. etc. How tight it too tight....oh they specify the length of the bolt
threads.....what about when the clutch disc surfaces wear down.........

If a slip works for you what else could you ask for?
 

Thanks guys. I think I'll get a pocket full of sheer bolts and see how it goes. In theory, for mowing my food plots, I should be pretty safe. The fencerows may present more challenges, but I'm going to see how it goes.

Now on to the next question. 5 foot or 6 foot?

Grouse
 

The wheels came spread pretty far, Jim. Just shy of 8 feet from outer edge to outer edge of the tires. I think they are 7 foot 9. I know I could move them and when I get one of the tires that's bald replace, I'll probably move them in about 6 inches total so I can get it between the wells on an 8 foot trailer.

So even a 6 footer isn't going to cover my tracks, but I'm not that bothered by that.

Grouse
 
Depends:

Available HP.
Kind of terrain. Narrower the less scalping on bumpy ground, mowing pond/pool banks and such.
Mowing rate: Do the math. A 5' with overlap so that you don't have "holidays" takes longer to do the job than the 20% reduction in size.
Obstacles: You may need a 5' to get into tight places.
Price: Cheaper
What else: ?
 
I loosen the slip clutch in the spring and slip it a little to make sure it isn't stuck, even though I always keep it inside. If
it sticks or rusts solid it won't do you any good! My first cutter had a shear bolt and I sheared so many I had to replace the
yolk, and they were always gr 2. If you use a shear bolt always use a lock nut on it, good luck!
 
My old mower had a half inch shear bolt in it. I only broke about 2 a year in it with some pretty heavy mowing. I think the key for me was I only
had 30 hp on a 5 foot mower so I killed the tractor more than the bolt. It was nothing to chew through 3 inch trees from time to time with that
old mower.

If your hole in the shaft at the shear bolt is worn you will go through lots of bolts even if you have a slip clutch. That hole has to be round with a
square shoulder to work properly and preserve the life of your sheer bolts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

O
8N ORC and Slip Clutch?
Replies
10
Views
1K
HFJ
H
B
Wore Out PTO?
Replies
3
Views
614
Bill VA
B
B
Brush hog stump jumper install?
Replies
10
Views
911
Dean
D
C
Slip clutch
Replies
5
Views
1K
ben brown
B
N
did my mechanic sabotage my brush hog?
2
Replies
22
Views
2K
showcrop
showcrop
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top