3pt plow adjustment

Standing Elk

New User
I bought a 2-14 three point plow at an estate auction. The plow is new and has never been in the ground but there are no decals to tell what brand it is. I was wondering if someone on here could give me suggestions on how to set it up.
1. how much, if any, should I tilt the plow forward or down in front? Does it help to get the points in the ground if I tilt the plow slightly down in front?
2. where should the culters be, for height. in comparison to the plow points? Should they be slightly above, even with or below the points?
Thanks
 
I found this info in a Kverneland document earlier today and just saw your questions:

1) Frame setting
The plow should be adjusted so that
the frame is parallel with the ground and
all the bodies plowing at the same
depth. Adjustment is carried out by
means of the tractor top link or tractor 3-
point linkage.
The plow legs should be set 90deg to
the land when in work. Adjustment is by
means of the tractor right hand levelling
box.
TIP! Do not adjust the front furrow width
unless this setting is correct.
Amatt-the furrow width adjustment on Ford and JD plows that I am familiar with is either a lever or a threaded rod with nut that is adjusted to rotate the cross shaft that the 3pt arms attach to. I'm not sure if all plows have this adjustment or not.
2) Disc coulter
The disc coulter should be set in a verti-
cal position and 1-2cm wider than the
furrow width. Depending on soil condi-
tions, the working depth should be be-
tween 4 -10cm maximum.
Amatt-if you are plowing 6" deep, then the edge of the disc coulter should be about 2 to 4 inches above the plow bottom.

I was looking at Kverneland plows after getting back from spectating at the world ploughing championships in England (good excuse for a leisure trip):
http://worldploughing.org/
 
I like to use a hydraulic toplink for adjustments on the go. I got the one in the picture from ebay for about $180. I put the link in here if you are interested.
a237481.jpg

Toplink
 
One important point on setting up a three point hitch plow I haven't seen mentioned is raising the tractor wheel before making the adjustments. To make your plow adjustments you need to drive the left rear wheel up on a 6 to 8in. block or ramp before making adjustments. The purpose of this is to simulate having the right side wheels in the furrow when plowing.
 

Find level hard ground (concrete is perfect....) drive front and rear tires on LEFT side of tractor up on 7" blocks(14" plow). and then use the top link and leveling crank on the 3pt to make the plow sit perfectly level on the ground.
 

Those rear wheels must be set really close ( NARROW), to use a 2x14" Mounted plow...!


The Coulters on this plow are mounted further forward than I like...the ACTION should work like a "Rolling Scissors" effect with the plow Share..

I think I would set them one mounting hole toward the Rear..

I also prefer my Coulters ( IF they happen to be large enough in diameter) to run DEEP, in Corn Stubble or fields with heavy Trash..

I have never had to raise mine up because of hard or dry ground..

Mine are JD Mounted and Pull-type and AC Mounted Plows..
 

That would be the "Landing" adjustment..

Some were set up to use a hydraulic cylinder to adjust it on the run..in strip-Farming or on hills..
 
I had a hydraulic top link on my Oliver 3-16 mounted plow. Found that with variations in load it would push the cylinder rather than reacting the draft. Suspect my issue was the plow was so heavy the cylinder couldn't manage the weight and the draft combined. But it sure did make hooking up easier.
 

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