5foot Brush Mower

Appreciate the input regarding my 5foot brush mower that I backed it into a stump causing it to start clanking one blade hitting the underneath side if the deck. Turns out one blade got bent and getting the nuts off the bolt was a real chore without a cutting torch impact couldn't budge it a buddy of mine and myself
finally today got them off. Tell y'all when the new bolts go back on never seize doped to the hill to keep this from happening again has much as possible. Any of you have some more suggestions before putting it back together.

Thanks;
Travis
 
I would use anti seize and new lock washers, they lose tension after each use

Yes the blade bolt nuts may be hard to get loose, but that is no problem at all compared to one of those nuts coming off while using the
machine and one of those blades comes flying out of there, it can go 40-50 ft in almost any direction cleaning a path as it goes,

My friend had the nut that secures the stump jumper to the gearbox with both blades come off, the cotter key came out, that will wake you up,

Need to check all the nuts, bolts and cotter keys each time you use the machine

Stay safe,
 
My self I would not use never seize in them. Think about what would happen if the nut came off when you where running the machine. The blade when they do come off and I have had a blade break and well I never have found that blade. But if and when a blade comes off it is in fact a small missile that can and will kill any animal or human that is in the way. And yes I have replace a number of brush hog bales and that is why I have a 3/4 inch drive socket set and cheater bars
 
I agree with Old. Forget the anti seize and get yourself a 3/4" or 1" socket with about a four foot cheater pipe and hunker down. Most cutters call for that nut to be around 400 foot pounds and up it seems. After using it for awhile repeat the hunkering down process.
 
Some blade holder bolts are left hand thread. The ones on me SE-6 Rhino are. I think the ones on mine are also nylock, (the nut is nylon lined)

My gear box has a tapered shaft and the book does call for the castellated nut to be torqued to 450 ft lbs.

I cannot torque down my blade holder bolts, the blades will not spin on the shoulder of the bolt if I do that.

I've used anti-seize on the castellated nut and shaft with no problems, and I have not torqued it to what the book calls for. I've never seen any problems with doing this, but then again I do flip mine over just about every year and service it, check things etc. I'm also not cutting 100 acres or heavy brush.

Now of course, these differ and or vary by manufacturer, so you have that part of it to consider.

I can get my stump pan off without any problems, matter of a fact I now just use my 3 point forks, and lift up on it when its flipped over. Easier to work on or remove the blades and I can re-tighten gear box bolts, and those do loosen up. You do not want those to egg shape their holes in the deck. Most have holes in the deck that align with the blade bolts so you can check those, but you really need a 2nd person, one to hold one one side, the other on the opposite side. I have had mine on its side and straddled it with long handles or cheater bars, but the deck was secured and I was out of its path if it went over. I like taking the stump pan off, its a little more work, but makes it easier, check the gear box bolts, and bottom shaft oil seal.
 
I had a international 5ft mower that one of the blades broke at the bolt and went flying somewhere never
found it. good thing i was in the bottom of a valley.
 

There is nothing wrong with using anti-seize. When torquing any nut-bolt to the recommended tightness you are securing it with the exact amount of stretch that the torque puts on the bolt, as opposed to friction between nut and bolt. When using anti-seize proper torque is more important than when dry, and where critical the spec is given as dry or lubed.
 
I guess I've been lucky. Never touched a bolt on a shredder in 37 years and had had half a dozen up to 8'. If the nut is a castle and pinned, why
do you need to torque to spec anyway? Why would you have to go back and check after so many hours? How would you go about torqueing
anyway? 150# wrench, 450 ft-lbs, 3' cheater needed, how do you hold the bolt in place while getting the nut tight, how do you get under the
machine anyway? Put a chain around the gear box and lift it up vertical?

I notice on everything I buy new the bolts are torqued to spec. Especially fun getting oil filters off new equipment in a tight place where you can't
get it to budge with the normally available cartridge wrenches. The only one I ever worried about was the pitman bolt holding the sickle bar onto
the gearbox (wobblebox) of a 1209 JD swather. 150# and if not it wouldn't hold and it wasn't a castle nut with a pin, and wasn't easy to get to and
apply that kind of torque....working alone.
 

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