Hesston 1110 Haybine Update 9-4-2016

Got all my parts in from Shoups for my cutterbar rebuild.

Started tearing apart the cutterbar assy and the hold downs and guards were so misaligned across the width of the bar, I had to take knife
sections out, loosen or remove guards to keep the knife assembly from binding so I could pull it out. The ball joint that drives the cutterbar is in
great shape. The cutterbar, less sections looks pretty good too - as per the manual. I think the misalignment between the guard ledger surface
and knife sections was a combination of slightly bent/wore guards and wore and I'll adjusted hold downs. All of that will be renewed. I think I
can renew the knife bar with new sections and have a decent spare.

Question: Should the knife assembly easily slide out of the guards for replacement/service? The effort I had to make to remove the cutterbar
would be unacceptable if I were in the field - IMHO.

The half swaybar. Very simple mechanism - impressed with that design. There is a tad of slack in the linkages, probably need new bushings.
Doesn't look like a hard fix - will get to it over the winter or next spring - the morning before I cut.... ;-)

Noticed the hold down spring on reel belt tension pulley is broken. Need to fix that.

Started the tractor with the knife removed, running at idle and you can hear some slap in the half swaybar drive. No where near as noisy with
the knife assy removed, but running at idle.

Question: is your half sway bar assembly dead tight/snug or is there a touch of slack?

When I'm speaking of the 1110, the 1120 is essentially identical, except for 2 more feet in width.

Thanks!
Bill

No slack. Everything should be tight as a drum. The taper bearings in the shaft,the bearing in the middle of that cast block and those four little bearings in those flat bars. If anything's the least little bit sloppy,that's where your noise is coming from.

I have only had my bar out of my 1120 once. To get it out I used another tractor and pulled it out (not fun) as I could not manhandle it out.

I got everything adjusted much better while it was out. Regardless, it was still not necessarily a fun job to get it back in. I found it went much better on the install with 2 people. The helper (my wife) could use a piece of wood and help guide the leading edge of the bar up or down as needed. My hodge podge of different guard types (5 different designs) likely does not help matters, but overall a 7' bar should go in with less hassle than a 9' bar as it should not want to sway as bad when unsupported during the install.

Still to replace a section I will remove a guard if I have before I pull the bar.

My wobbler mechanism does not make any noise or knocks. Very simple and robust design IMOP.

I believe you are right. Looks like an easy enough rebuild.

I think I've read you rebuilt the swaybar drive a time or two on your Hesston 1110, was your effort limited to bearings or did you have to replace any of the cast triangular wedges?

Thanks!
Bill

Yea - hopefully putting the bar in won't be such a challenge. I think I've got a long straight edge somewhere, if I can find it, I'll check the apron
everything bolts to for straightness. That might be the root cause of the binding/misalignment. All of my guards I bought are adjustable - we'll
see how that works out.

Thanks,
Bill

My machine has aprroximately 33% stub guards on it of the adjustable variety with an Allen wrench. The remainder are the 2 common New Holland run of the mill types (and then I have a few other bargain bin kinds as well).

Overall I like those stub guards, but they do take a bit longer to adjust. The traditional guards are much easier and quicker to adjust with a pipe tool or alternatively a big hammer. I like the stub guards but they are the factory Hesston ones and like $27 each last time I priced them. Too expensive for my shoestring operation which likely means I will not buy them. I believe previous owner had plans to eventually replace all the guards with stubs in slow little bit of a time manner slowly and he just never got it done.

Bearings only,but over the years,I replaced them all,including the taper bearings and seals in the counter balance shaft. I think the first bearing I replaced because of noise was the large sealed bearing in that cast block.

Got the guards on and the cutterbar in. My plow bolts, half of them were about 1/4 inch to short where the hold downs were. Had some spares that fit, but not enough. So still got a bit of work to do. Tomorrow, back to the salt mine, so it will be late Thursday or Friday to wrap this up.

One thing that stood out to me was the guard that is to the left most side of the cutterbar - next to the sickle drive. It is a different part number and has a deeper groove where the sickle bar overlays - like made for taller bolt clearance beneath the cutterbar. But what is noticeable is the vertical/ledger gap for the sickle to pass is wider than the other guards. I know in that area, the sickle makes an arc motion, up and down, but the gap looks like it would easily plug - we'll see.

Was no where near as difficult to put the new cutterbar back into the new guards. All of my hold downs are adjustable and the ones I adjusted, works great.

I'll rebuild the sickle drive over the winter.

Bill

If you look at the parts book break down by serial numbers the Knife head drive bracket that connects to the wobble mechanism is different as the serial numbers progressed.

The early one is kinda tall in appearance and needs more clearance. I have heard the early design is more prone to breaking. What I do know is that there is absolutely No way would that early knife head go through the Hesston stub guard that are on the far end of my bar. (I have the early design as mine is a real early serial number and one of the first few 1120's built. I have not had any issue with the early knife head yet ).

Later serial numbers have a lower profile knife head which is supposed to be improved. Likely allows the use of those Hesston 2 piece adjustable stub guards too.