Nh 311 hitting safety stops

Nick m

Member
Was baling hay a couple weeks ago when I mysteriously sheared a pin on the flywheel. I thought at the time it was kind of odd, rarely shear any and it wasn't damp or crazy heavy hay. Put a pin in and baled another 5-10 bales and did it again. I put another in and began rolling it over by hand at the flywheel when it went bang! I believe the plunger is hitting the safety stops. Thought maybe a chain skipped somewhere and was out of time. Checked all the timing marks (plunger,fingers, knotters,) all good. I backed it in the barn and got the round baler out and finished up. Haven't dug into it any farther yet. Anyone got an idea on where to start?
 
I agree. check needle brake. The lineings are worn and letting the needle assembly is drifting down. It doesnt take much movement to engage the stop.
 
Check the adjustment on your plunger stop cable. I had the same thing happen on my 316 - turns out a couple strands of the cable had broken, and the cable stretched.
I was able to adjust it to finish the day, then replaced the cable
Pete
 
It's been a good one. Grandfather in law bought it new way back when. Did all the baling on their small dairy farm for years and I still put 1-2000 per year.
 
First thing everyone says is to start cranking on the brake. If the knotter 'home' position is correct, the needles can't drop because the knotter shaft would have to counter-rotate. RTFM. Check your needle latch linkage as others suggest.
 
(quoted from post at 18:13:23 08/18/16) First thing everyone says is to start cranking on the brake. If the knotter 'home' position is correct, the needles can't drop because the knotter shaft would have to counter-rotate. RTFM. Check your needle latch linkage as others suggest.

Rick
May I ask on a NH sq baler the very moment baler trips to start tying cycle can needles move on their own if brake isn't holding well enough IE needle frame fall enough to release plunger head stop? I know this can happen on a JD sq baler and I'm guessing it can happen on NH but have very limited experience repairing NH sq balers.
Thanks,Jim
 
(quoted from post at 15:13:23 08/18/16) First thing everyone says is to start cranking on the brake. If the knotter 'home' position is correct, the needles can't drop because the knotter shaft would have to counter-rotate. RTFM. Check your needle latch linkage as others suggest.

WRONG!! No one said to crank on the brake. All three made constructive suggestions of something to check.
 
I'm not nearly as wrong as you think. Every time broken flywheel shear bolts are discussed, several suggestions are made to check, tighten, or
replace the brake discs. I don't recall anyone other than myself mentioning checking or adjusting the knotter home position. I've found it wrong
on many, many balers including brand new ones. When 'home' is right, minimal brake pressure is required and it is actually impossible for
the needles to drop into the chamber. When the needle bail crank arm pivot is to the rear of center (home is too late), the needles can drop
when shock loaded unless the brake is banjo string tight.
 
Yes, that could happen. The tell would be that the knotter shaft and driven side of the knotter clutch would be ahead of and away from the
roller on the drive side of the clutch.
 
Think I found the problem. The stop itself is broken. Years ago my brother in law decided to replace chains and not check the timing, imploded it. You can see this had been cracked for a long time and the last little bit gave way finally. Hopefully that's all it is. The cable and brake look ok to me.
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