IHC fast hitch sickle mower

Got this yesterday for cheap. Works pretty well as the seller demonstrated before I bought it. Right off I realized it isn't a FH mower exactly meant for the Super C (even though it was advertised for the C, he had it on a 240 utility.) Nevertheless, with minor adjustments it easily mounted to the C. I think once I understand the linkages that control the lifting and levelling of the bar, I get her squared away. The seller forgot to give me the manual but is supposed to be mailing it.

I have 2 questions:

1} Does anybody have any guidance how to setup he levelling/lifting linkages (or whatever they are called)? I've seen some pictures that have a rod leading to the touch control arm.

2) Is there a good way to straighten the bowed cutting bar? Some blocking and weight?

Thanks, Chris B.
 
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That doesn't look right to me when the mower is on the ground. The PTO shaft is too steep and angle for the universal joints. Check the manual and see if there is some adjustment for a C to reduce the angles on the universal joints, otherwise they will probably fail after a short period of use.
 
Hi Chris, my Dad bought the 3pt hitch model new in 1958 and I cut many hundreds of acres with one. I believe it is still in the corner of my brother's machine shed.
Re bowed cutting bar, that is normal when you lift it but in cutting position the cutting bar should be riding on the inner and outer shoe.
On the 3pt model the proper cutting position was when the PTO shaft was in straight alignment.
We used the chain on the right to control the height. We screwed a bolt with a clevis into the side of the diff case and hooked the chain to the clevis. The 3pt hitch had no down pressure so just drop 3pt control lever and the mower height would be controlled by length of chain. On your 2pt you may have down pressure and there is a pin to remove to all the float position.
The cutter bar height was controlled by the chain on the left side. The angle of the cutter bar was controlled by the large bolt in the slot on the right side.

BE VERY CAREFUL when raising the cutter bar to transport position to keep your fingers away from the knives as the knives will drop to the transport stop position.

Looks like a well cared for mower.
JimB
 
Thanks. Actually, I'm starting to understand that part. There's a bellcrank to lower the rear arm that I don't have attached. That part, I believe, is tied into my missing rod. The 240 guy had a chain attached to the hitch and a 2nd bellcrank on the left prong that raised the rear arm as the hitch came up.

I'm getting there. Chris B.
 
I think the left chain is the one here that controls the height. That one would tie into the bellcrank and rear arm.

The cutting bar is, unfortunately, bowed even with the shoes on the ground.

Good tip about the raising the cutter bar. Hadn't paid attention to that yet.

Thanks, Chris B.
 
I have one of these that is very similar to yours. I will take some pictures tomorrow showing how I have the linkage hooked up. I am using mine on a Super C with a fast hitch. My mower is actually for a 300 utility.
 
I have straitened a lot of cutter bars that were bowed up in the middle. I would measure/guess the amount of bend and then place wood blocks near each end and a third block that was twice the amount of sag lower than the end blocks and apply down pressure until the bar rested on the center block. When the pressure was released the bar would be straight. Good enough to work but not as good as new. I do not remember charging because it took such small amount of time. I would block the top of the mast on a fork lift with a 4x4 to get down oressure
 

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