How Tight Should Square Baler Chains Be?

VTHokieAg

Member
So I posted a picture last week of a New Holland Super 69 I bought and I have been going over it top to bottom. One thing the manual doesn't
actually say is how tight all of the roller chains should be? The only spec it gives pertaining to chains is on the tine drive. Says you
should have 5/8" of movement when 100 lbs. of force is applied to middle of chain between sprockets. I adjusted all the other chains because
they were pretty floppy but didn't really know what tightness I was looking for. I'm worried to go too tight and mess something up when I'm
actually baling.
 
I use what I learned from 46 years of riding motorcycle that a chain should be tight but in the longest run with out any thing in it have around a 1/2 inch of play when pushed or pulled on. I us that on my balers etc to this day and still have 6 scooters on the place
 
what old says is pretty good. I'd just say, really scrutinize your chains, as a worn and stretched chain will do more damage than you'd think. You'll soon find yourself replacing sprockets along with the chain of you let it go to long when stretched. And if you can, buy the more expensive chain because it'll go longer without needing replacement.

If it has much side to side play when loose, it's good indication it's stretched. Also if the tensioners are maxed out and the only way to make tight again is to remove a link (NEVER, EVER, EVER DO THIS ON A SQUARE BALER) then your chain needs to be replaced.

Too many guys run a chain far too long before replacing, and wind up buying new sprockets as well (most are very expensive) because they were too cheap or lazy to replace $25 worth of chain.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
If I remember correctly you get a hanging scale and basically lift up till you have a 100 lbs and the chain should move about 5/8. Now if you got a hanging scale and if you can lift 100 lbs all the while watching the movement of the chain . Or just follow old fart's advice and you will find replacing chains is a lot cheaper than replacing needles and other expensive stuff.
 
I am somewhat in the same boat as hokie. My old New Holland baler has baled thousands on some old chains that look ok but could probably go at any minute. The specs say chain RC2040 chain. There is also an extended pitch RC 2040 chain on the market. Do these older NH balers us RC2040 chain or extended pitch chain? Also, I often hear to stay away from 'cheap china made chain". What are good brands of chain to buy? New chain at $6 or $7 per foot is probably a great investment if you have any question about the integrity of existing chain.
 
Also keep an eye on your knotter drive sprocket. If the chain looks wobbly as it rides across the sprocket, the temptation is to over tighten the chain to eliminate the wobble - as the chain looks like it could ride up and jump off the sprocket. The problem is not the chain tension, but the sprocket has a brass bushing and this bushing is wore, creating the wobble. It is an easy, low cost fix.

While you are ordering parts and paying shipping, another thing to replace is the little knurled wheel that contacts the trip arm. Cheap part, easy fix and really helps keep the trip arm in place as the bale length is formed.

Good luck,
Bill
 
(quoted from post at 14:01:04 08/12/16) I am somewhat in the same boat as hokie. My old New Holland baler has baled thousands on some old chains that look ok but could probably go at any minute. The specs say chain RC2040 chain. There is also an extended pitch RC 2040 chain on the market. Do these older NH balers us RC2040 chain or extended pitch chain? Also, I often hear to stay away from 'cheap china made chain". What are good brands of chain to buy? New chain at $6 or $7 per foot is probably a great investment if you have any question about the integrity of existing chain.

http://www.rollerchain4less.com/

A former employer bought roller chain from this website for a project, and I thought it was well made chain. No idea how long it holds up in industry though as I moved jobs shortly after that project.
 
A month or so ago, I saw a rusty old NH 68 baler sitting in a parking lot in a small town, no idea why it was there- it had hay in in and fairly fresh twine, every chain had about two inches of sag in it, missing a few pickup teeth, and had several broken shear pin bolts laying on top of the frame above the flywheel. The wheels had big fender washers on the bolts, like the lug holes were all wallowed out. Bald, dry rotted old car tires on it.

I guess someone was still using it, but I can't imagine it baled well or tied consistently!
 

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