hay wagon deck

moday

Member

I'm at the point where the 4x4 cross members are set on top of the long timbers on the wagon that I'm rebuilding. It's probably stronger than it needs to be, but I copied the deck that I took of it...

I will probably rebuild the deck with a combination of 2x10 and 2x8 boards at 15 foot length. The wagon timbers got trimmed down a bit since 6 inches of rot got cut off each end. Plan to used pressure treated but not sure it that is too slippery? Any thoughts on that? I've found no rough cut timber available.

Also, what is the best way to make a rub rail? I was told to add one but I also like the idea of a 1x3 or 1x4 around the outer deck to keep feet from slipping off and to feel for an edge with your boot. I don't think that will affect stacking hay/straw to the edge much.

What type of bolts/screws to attach? the deck? I'm thinking 3" screws.....

thanks in advance. I just want to do it right so I don't have to re-do my efforts.

Moday
 
sounds good the way you have it. I would use yellow pine naturally bug resistant and won't shrink as much.
 
Mine is built the way you are describing only the deck is made out of 2X6s instead of 2X10s or 2X8s. I wouldn't know if it was slick when new because mine has years (decades?) of use and has weathered enough to give a person grip. Can't be to bad or else no one would build a deck on their house with 5/4 inch decking. I soak mine up with old engine oil for preservative and it doesn't get slick from that.

Mine was nailed down using galvanized nails but several were loose that I reattached with 3" deck screws that are designed for use with treated wood. Usually reuse the nail holes.

No rub rail on any of the old hay wagons I've seen.
 
What seems to work best here in Iowa's climate is treated beams and untreated 2x12 deck. Last rack I made, 4x6 treated stringers with 4x4 treated cross joists and 2x12 decking I rimmed it with a 2x4 on top. I'm thinking a 1x4 would have been adequate. The tall 2x4 rim board on the back tilts the first column of bales forward a bit much.
 
Rub rail put a 2x4 against the ends of the 4x4 cross pieces and lay floor out over top of that. All bed floors were 3/4" with a 2x4 or 2x6 for the outermost board and that would keep hay from sliding off side, none on ends.
 
All flat rack wagons that I grew up with and now have does have a 1 X 4 on both sides and on the ends. All of these wagons had removable 12 inch side and end boards that set inside with hold down bolts for grain use. One has car siding for side boards that are higher.

I built my miniature wagon this way.

2012-03-27-18-12-34.html

Picture here
 

Be sure to lay aluminum flashing on your cross members before laying the deck. The last two that I built I used 5/4 PT decking. It could be slippery when wet but I have never had a reason to be on one when wet. So far as the edges mine have nine foot sides, but I have seen plenty that use a 7/4 down each edge.
 
This is made to scale if you care to you can hit the (Prev) at the top to go back thru the build.
 
Why use the aluminum flashing on the cross members? I've got 4x4 treated x-members so I think that I'll be ok wood to wood. I don't know what showcrop means about a 9 foot side with a 7/4 edge. Do you mean 9 feet wide and is a 7/4 a piece of metal at 90 degree 7 in by 4 in?

thanks
 
(quoted from post at 07:43:30 08/09/16) Why use the aluminum flashing on the cross members? I've got 4x4 treated x-members so I think that I'll be ok wood to wood. I don't know what showcrop means about a 9 foot side with a 7/4 edge. Do you mean 9 feet wide and is a 7/4 a piece of metal at 90 degree 7 in by 4 in?

thanks

The sides of my wagons are steel, nine feet high. when you have the sides you don't worry about anything thicker down the edge for extra strength. 7/4 is two inch thick material that has been run through a plane. just like 5/4 is one and a half that is planed on both sides. The aluminum flashing keeps the water off your cross members so that the wood lasts three times longer, whether PT or Oak or Ash or Hemlock
 

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