JD Equal Angle Hitch vs Gear Swivel Pivot

I gather the purpose of JD's equal angle hitch is to allow tighter turning of a PTO powered implement without getting the u-joints in a bind.

My JD348 baler has the equal angle hitch and while I haven't got into the tongue of the baler with the rear tire, I've came close - with no noticeable u-joint chatter.

Just looking at some disc mower conditioners, I see some offer a gear box to allow tight turning and the PTO driveline never appears to me to move out of position in a turn. The New Idea 5209 in MF cloths (model 1359) has a CV joint arrangement in the driveline. Don't know if that is to allow tighter turns or not.

Then I look at the smaller JD disc mower conditioners and they offer the equal angle hitch.

The equal angle hitch on my 348 strikes me as drop dead simple and I guess it works out when making tight turns.

What are the limits on an equal angle hitch and why would I shell out more $$$'s for a gear head type swivel hitch or something with a CV joint?

JD has had this equal angle hitch and disc mower conditioners for a goodly while. If I could find a deal on an older JD disc mower conditioner with the equal angle hitch, I might be interested.

Mostly - just want to know the advantage/disadvantages of the equal angle hitch vs other pivot arrangements on disc mower conditioners.

Thanks,
Bill

JD has utilized equal angle hitches since the 60's. They make the pto u-joint angles the same on telescoping shafts in turns which eliminates vibration.

I personally like EA hitch/telescoping driveline on JD 430/530 rd balers better than the CV joint on later model JD rd balers. One drawback is some lazy people chose not to install EA hitch &/or set drawbar hole correct length from end of tractor pto shaft.

I run a 1207 and like the EA hitch. I used to use it behind a Ford 2000 and could turn so that the tires almost touched the tongue and no chatter.

The theory is that the shafts turn at different speeds if not equal length legs of the angle. You may say that they can't do that because the U joint won't let them. Well, the U joint WILL to a degree or two or three.....depending on how worn your joints are. That's enough to cause the vibration as the driven shaft....the one closest to the implement body constantly tries to lag behind then gets slammed ahead by the u-joint then drag and back and repeat the cycle. The higher the angle of turn, the harder the driven tries to lag behind and the harder the hammering.

Not too long ago Jim and I talked about the 530 ('60 vintage if I recall) with the EA drawbar extension and the current CV located at the tractor end which my current 375 ('91 model) uses which is the device that eliminates overrunning on the driven shaft and allows sharp turns without vibration. The CV joint is heavy and I'm getting on up there in years and it's hard for me to mount the PTO shaft by myself, which is how I work. I have since figured out a couple of things that have helped. I think I'll mention them if anybody is interested:

First off my current tractor an Indepentent PTO and it's locked if the tractor is not in the PTO position and running.....might refer to it as the PTO brake. This dictates that the implement shaft has to turn. Currently my round baler is the only implement with the CV coupling and to get it to turn you have to roll the PTO shaft which rolls the belts which requires a lot of effort while you are trying to hold the locking collar back (toward the implement) while you are trying to hold the thing up and line up the teeth with the tractor's spline and slide it forward, all while bending over and putting that strain on your back.

My changes are 2: First I connect the hydraulic hoses and start the tractor and open the gate enough to take the pressure off the rollers. Then shut it back down....safety if nothing else. This and a short cheater bar has solved the rotation to align the teeth problem. Second I built a hinged support that has a flat plate that slips around the drawbar and is at the right height under the CV joint to line it up to engage the tractor splines and support its weight.

It's a lot easier now to push the CV up to the tractor spline while holding the collar back and applying slight pressure while, with the other hand and the cheater bar stuck through a yoke on the shaft, slowly rotate the implement shaft till you feel it give. Once it's done that it easily goes on. Remove the stand and you're good to go.

The 530 baler and the 1209 Swathers I had years ago, worked excellent with the EA bar extension to the point that I could do as Mike mentioned, make a turn so tight the baler or swather drawbar could (if I let it) come in contact with the rear tire with minimal vibration. What it did allow was for me to cut a perfectly square 90 degree turn with a 9' swather with no detectable vibration. Never had to go back and make several X passes to clean up the corners which I really liked.

The equal angle hitch works great for lower horse power applications, under 100 HP. When you start going to large Mo-Cos that take higher horse power than the drive shafts in the equal angle hitch can handle over a long period. The two point with the gear case is much stronger. It does cost more too but rarely have any troubles with them. Where the heavier equal angle drive shafts used on the pull type choppers where a maintenance item.

I personally prefer the two point with the drive shaft running straight. Much easier for al older fellow to hook up by yourself.

Then my second choice would be the equal angle hitch.

My last choice would be the gear case type that just set on the drawbar. Yes they do keep the PTO shaft straight but are usually a PAIN to hook up because of weight. JD offers that hitch and NH. Both are hard to hook up by yourself.

That's better than I do, Tex. Using that thing ten years and I rarely get a corner that doesn't leave a little standing.

Well sir, there "always" has to be those mavericks that like to show you that you aren't as "smug" in your ability to operate your machinery as you think, or you get distracted, like the time I ran over an inground nest of Bumble Bees. Got 2 pops out of that and boy did they hurt.

I was running a 4020D and 4230D with my 1209s and 530 so I was right there at your break point.