Mower Rivets

UP Oliver

Member
I have an old Oliver haybine, and had a knife fall off. I had one rivet left there so I drilled it out. I wondered if anyone could tell me if that is the way to go or is there an easier way?

Thanks.
 
I have always used a punch to pop them out. That way you do not mess up the hole it goes in
 
When it's out of the machine, I have a piece of 2 1/2" thick flat steel, that I use as an anvil. I put the cutter bar on edge, resting on the steel with the knives facing down. Make sure it's supported good, and smack the back side of the knife with a good sized hammer - it'll shear the rivets right off, and they'll fall out.
Pete
 
As was mentioned, grinding off the rivet - either on the machine or with the sickle assy out and as was mentioned using a hammer to shear the rivet off. If you search, there are some pretty good youtube videos showing this.

If the haybine is good and you feel like spending the money, I'd go to bolt on sections. I've got them on my Hesston 1110 and while somewhat a pain in the arse to get the section out of the guard when unbolted, it's a piece of cake attaching the sections to the cutter bar.

Good luck,
Bill
 
One of the manuals I have for a sickle bar mower says to us the jaws of a vise to do what your doing. Just clamp it down just tight enough to hold it but not so tight as to not be able to slide it forward for the next section. The manual even has a picture showing how if I remember right
 
There is a special tool/rivet press that is made to remove/install rivets.Fits in your hand and uses a 3/4" wrench.Change the rivet/section right on the machine. Or, as was said,convert to section bolts.
 
"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]is there an easier way?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"



This is one method, mentioned below by [b:654c4848f0]DeltaRed[/b:654c4848f0], that you might consider using to replace a section without drilling out the rivet.

Take a look at the photos below.

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Hope this helps.
 
Thanks everybody for the responses. I appreciate it. What is that green tool called? That looks like something I could use.
 
The tool can be referred to as a <a href="https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search;_ylt=AwrTcceOmZhX0nAAVygnnIlQ?p=sickle+section+rivet+tool&fr=yhs-mozilla-003&fr2=piv-web&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-003">sickle section rivet tool</a>.

Bought this rivet tool at Tractor Supply many years ago for about $50.00.

This rivet tool is also available from <a href="http://www.shoupparts.com/R3030/">Shoup Manufacturing Company</a>.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for the information. I suppose the long term best way to go would be to use the bolts I saw at Tractor Supply. They cost more but can be used over and over.

Do the new machines have rivets? Were rivets the only option many years ago?

Thanks again.
 
"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]Do the new machines have rivets?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

I have not bought any new equipment so don't know what comes "standard" for knives.

"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]Were rivets the only option many years ago?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Yes, rivets were used on the older, sickle mower knives.

The new sickle knives can be bought/ordered with either rivets or bolts for the older mowers.

We have 5 sickle mower <a href="https://youtu.be/KcztYe4w5-M">knives with rivets</a> and 1 mower <a href="https://youtu.be/_CJbfqofbUE?list=PLCUEeGboEbi9lZeitHoI9GA2HKYB2_Zyg">knife with bolts</a>.

Note that the knife with bolts requires high arch knife hold-down clips.

Hope this helps.
 
That does help. I did not think about the bolts needing high arch clips. I don't even know what I have on mine, I will have to go look. I bought this mower a few years ago very cheap, basically for scrap iron price. I have never had a new mower, but this thing cuts very good in my opinion, I just have to go a little slower when I am in the thicker material. I had looked in the Shoup catalog and saw where I could buy a whole new set of knives for about $35.00, and for that amount of money I should probably replace the knives every couple years or so, I guess depending on how much hay I cut. So I am just thinking of future maintenance, that is the reason for all the questions.

Thanks again. I watched some of your videos, very informative.
 
be careful with bolts - they may not fit under your hold down clamps.

Remember too that the cutter bar does have to come completely out from time to time, so the bolts have to fit under all the clamps you've got installed (if there's a blend of sizes, as can happen over the years)

Personally - to replace the section I'd pull the whole cutter bar. While you've got it out, it's a lot easier to inspect and replace the other sections that my need help. It also just does a lot for you inspection wise - to be sure it moves out freely (you may have to tap the far end to get it out though). It makes sure you're drive end's bolts stay clean and not rusted solid, makes any odd wear visible, etc.

Yes, it can be repaired in the mower - but yanking it really shouldn't be a big deal, and you gain so much.
 
I use a large vice.

Open the jaws just far enough to allow the section through - and leave the bar itself flat against the vice jaw.

Use a 4 pound hammer to smack the section down. The rivet usually pops on the first or second hit.

It's works so well and easily that I can't see doing it any other way.

It does help to have an assistant holding the bar when doing the ends.

Just wear goggles -those rivet heads do shoot out pretty good.
 
Most farm and home pl;aces have the hold downs in the same area as the section bolts and they do not cost all that much. I have switch a good many sickle bar mowers to bolt on section and most of the time I shim the hold downs up a bit then use a hammer to make the tips hold it bar down as needs be
 
Like Old said its as simple as knocking it out with a couple licks with a punch.I do like the tool to compress the rivet while its in the mower although I'd use an impact.
 

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