Rebuild a hay wagon

moday

Member
I have a question....got an old JD running gear and we cleaned it up and painted it. The old wood was so rotten and we started this project a couple years ago that I can't figure out the best way to put it back to together. I have the old stringers that are 16' 2" but need to cut back about 2 feet on each one to make it work. They are rotted on the ends.

The wood is what??? So heavy and can't imagine the cost to replace. Seems like 3 inch x 8 inch rough cut. I bet each one is 250 lbs. If I cut back then I need to re-adjust the gear. I'm thinking about 2 feet front over hand and 3 foot rear overhang. Is that pretty normal? I hope to hold 100 bales still.

Also, how does the wood frame stay on? Looks like the old wood had just one bolt and kind of wedged into the vertical braces off the gear. Is that normal for roll so it's not so rigid?

There were two wooden braces between the stringers. Looks like those were not over the axle. Is that normal too?

thanks, Mike
 
They aren't attached by much. I bolt the front sill to the metal uprights and leave the backs floating. I use a chain so they don't come completely off, but I don't bolt the backs so it doesn't twist the rack so bad when it's empty if I take it through a ditch or something.

If the ends are rotten there are probably spots just waiting to rot on you. I use 6x6 pressure treated for the sills. It's not cheap, but if you build it on the cheap you will regret it in a year. I don't like laminated sills but even that would be better than something that may not last.
 
The old stringers are probably oak. I use 2x8 oak for stringers, 2x4 oak for cross members, 5 to a 14 foot deck. White oak is probably better but red is common around here and cheaper. For the deck I get 10 or 12 inch poplar sawn to 1" thick from an Amish mill, and 2x6 on the two edges. That gives a little more strength for when you clip a fencepost (we all do) and I can feel the edge of the deck when I'm stacking. I've been on wagons made from treated material but they get real slippery and at my age I don't like to fall.
 

I started using hemlock for various out in the weather purposes many years ago. It lasts much better than other soft woods, and once it is dry it is a lot lighter than hard wood or pressure treated yellow pine. I use rough cut 3x5s. I put cross pieces between the main beams, front and back they are lagged together through three inch angle stock. Like not just air said you probably have other weak places that you just can't see yet, and the main beams are normally attached at only front or rear, with a light loose chain for just in case. before screwing your deck down onto the cross members, lay some aluminum flashing over them
 
I don't know if it's available in your area, but rough cut larch works very well. It's lighter than oak, but tough and more weather resistant.
I build 8'x18' kicker racks with it. I use 3"x8" for the sills, 2"x6" for the cross pieces and 1"x6" for the flooring
Pete
 
I am in the process of rebuilding a barge box on a gear. I have been looking at the structure parts on many different wagons. The 4x6 stringers can range from any type of wood that is readily available in a particular area, just as the rest of the wood would be. Many 4x6s and 4x4 cross stringers in my area are either pine-fir-oak. Most deck tops are fir-pine. From the hay racks or boxes I have taken apart, originally the 4x4 cross stringers were bolted to the 4x6 stringers. I have used a rafter bracket, "hurricane clip", to attach the 4x4 cross stringers to the 4x6s. The 4x6 stringers have been bolted to the frame in one or two places to allow the wood structure of the wagon to twist and flex with the gear/ground. Putting a chain across a free/unbolted/unattached "corner", 4x6 stringer and frame, is a common practice around here for safety.
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