Deere 670 Rake 435 Baler

Hi all,

Having a few minor issues with one of our rakes and our baler, hoping the experts here can help out:

Rake: We bought a Deere 670 rake last year, just got a few bearings replaced and am setting up to use it now.
Is the gearbox on the left side supposed to take and lubricant? it seems to me it should be filled to some
level with gear oil, but there's no drain, fill, or level plug that I can see. Not one that screws or bolts
off at any rate, just a pressed-in plug that looks like a wheel bearing cap.

Rake Question #2: One of the bearing sets in the roller bar ends has a bit of slop in it. I ordered some
Timken bearing and cups from our supplier at work, since I've always been a little underwhelmed with the
offshore bearings Deere supplies for their spare parts, and have a new seal and snap ring from Deere. I
haven't torn into it yet, and just want to make sure I have everything good to go before I end up missing
something and end up with a broken rake for an entire week. Is it just a matter of popping out the seal,
taking out a snap ring, and sucking out the old bearings and cups?

Baler: The bale weight/density gauge on our 435 baler has never worked (on the baler itself, not the monitor).
I've never been overly concerned with it, but occasionally I've felt it would be nice to see what it's saying.
the needle just stays resting at the lowest position. Could this be just a case of a new gauge, or does the
hydraulic line leading to it have to be bled first, and if so, could air in the line be the problem in the
first place?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Density gauge doesn't require bleeding with R&R of gauge. How tight are the flat sides of the 435 bales?

To ease brg replacement loosen both ends of tooth bars. You can weld a bead around inner race to shrink it to help in removing it.

Have you ever attempted to tighten(CW) hyd tension valve under cover that is across frt of baler?

Thanks for the info! I've played with the tension valve a bit, just to see what happens, and it hasn't made a
noticeable difference. I'm curious: how much do you have to turn it before you notice a significant difference in
the bale density? Baling 6' bales they come out nice and square on the sides, not quite as even on the top as I've
got using a neighbor's New Holland baler, but still tight and acceptable.

Thanks for the tip about stringing a bead of weld around the inner race.

(quoted from post at 13:10:04 07/04/16) how much do you have to turn it before you notice a significant difference in
the bale density? Baling 6' bales they come out nice and square on the sides, not quite as even on the top as I've
got using a neighbor's New Holland baler, but still tight and acceptable.

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I have my 467 tension valve closed nearly completely IIRC one turn from fully closed. Bales being level on top is't dependent on baler brand but how good the baler operator drives the tractor.

"just a pressed-in plug that looks like a wheel bearing cap"

That's the only opening on my JD 660 rake. That cap pops out pretty easily.

Deere rakes did not use oil. You are supposed to fill the gearbox with grease.On the bar we drilled a small hole in ours to press out the threaded stud and then threaded the hole for a grease fitting so we can grease our bars.Make sure threads are ok on the studs as if they are not the castle nut will work loose and let the bar slop damaging the big circle that the bars mount on. Tom

6 foot long bales?

(quoted from post at 12:28:36 07/05/16) 6 foot long bales?

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Nope 6 ft tall rd bales.