old disk to new vertical tillage

ihjerm

New User
has anyone taken an old disk and try to make it like a new vertical tillage??? I have a international 490 disk and was thinking of maybe trying to make it like a vertical tillage just wondering if anyone has done it to give insight if worth it or not any help or suggestions would be great thanks
 
My opinion is because the discs are concave and you run the gangs straight they won't penetrate. Usually have flat rippled discs set straight and more weight than a regular disc on vertical till tools I have seen.
 
Seen one at a consignment sale like that, been a few years ago can't remember the brand of disk. They put on all no till coulters and straitened the gangs and had a harrow on back. Don't have a clue how well it worked for them though.
 
I believe it is a combination of weight and different discs. I've pondered it also. Have you looked into diamond discs. The gangs are inverted the opposite way.
 
Some of the guys that have been doing vertical tillage exclusively for awhile are starting to see compaction problems. I question whether it is juust another fad devised to sell new machinery and will wait awhile to see how it works out. If you have a good 490 they still bring decent money around here (upper Midwest)
 
I think if you have a nice 490 disc, leave it alone.... and that's not a strike against VT tools. It's just that they are an entirely different animal. I've run a Salford RTS.... and on that rig you have 4 rows of wavy coulters, all spring mounted on pivots, a tine harrow and a rolling basket. You drive it at 6-10 mph in just about any kind of ground. The coulters slice and the harrow stirs it around... It's just a flat out different concept than a disc. My opinion... if you want to get a so called VT tool that looks like a disc, just use a disc.
Speed it what you gain with the coulters and nothing about a disc design will stand up to that.

Rod
 
I've seen a few guys around that made their own Vertical Tillage tools. The key with straight blades is to get the gangs either perfectly straight or less than a 5 degree pitch. More than 5 degrees with straight blades is too much for the blades.

Some guys have found it necessary to add weight to the frame to get them to penetrate. They're meant to go in 2-4 inches max and chop residue (corn stalks) so it decomposes quickly and move just enough soil to mix and hold down the residue from blowing or floating away.

Tyler in IL
These blades look mean
 
I built my own from a Deere BWF. We bought turbo till blades and changed the frame so we can run the blades strait or a slight angle. The problem is we had to add weight and the lift on the disk is maxed out and we still want more weight. I am looking for a heavier frame so we can add more weight. When the main unit is what I want I am planning on adding a rolling basket to the back. A new 12ft machine is $20,000 and so far I have less than $4,000 in mine. It is not what I want yet but we make a few changes every year. My blades came from CFC in Indiana. Tom
 

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