This old disc III

DieselVol

Member
Still going on the IH 37 restoration project. So far I've gotten both tires to hold air, the hydraulics all replaced, and all the scrapers removed. The gang bolts are another story. I'll tip my hat to all who said the impact wrench would have no "impact". It did nothing. Now I need breaker bar tips. I've ordered a 40" model, but I know I need to add a "cheater". How long, what size pipe (1",2"?) and what should it be made of. I have nothing that will work, so I'll have to buy whatever is the best option. Thanks for any opinions.
 
One of the best things I ever did for
working on old tractors was to buy a set of
cheap, China made 3/4" sockets.
Have had them for most of 20 years now. I
broke a couple of sockets, the breaker bar
and the ratchet over the years but have
replaced them as needed with Proto,
Craftsman and a couple of Williams off of
ebay, etc.
 
Take a torch and CAREFULLY blow off one side of the nut,go down to just above the threads. add some candle wax as it cools.OR...
take a cold chisel and a BFhammer and score one or two sides of the nut. that will cause the nut to stretch a bit a nd release.
Destroy the nuts if you must and replace them. better than a huge fight and possible broken tools,or pulled/galled threads on
the gang bolt.Btw,a 4 ft(or longer) cheater acceptable.Apply anti sieze on reassembly.
 
Ultra is right,go buy a cheap 3/4 drive socket set.And then get a 4 or 5 ft stick of 1" black pipefor your cheater. A 1/2 drive set just wont cut it. There have been times I've wished for a 1" drive set
 
(quoted from post at 06:48:36 05/23/16) Take a torch and CAREFULLY blow off one side of the nut,go down to just above the threads. add some candle wax as it cools.OR...
take a cold chisel and a BFhammer and score one or two sides of the nut. that will cause the nut to stretch a bit a nd release.
Destroy the nuts if you must and replace them. better than a huge fight and possible broken tools,or pulled/galled threads on
the gang bolt.Btw,a 4 ft(or longer) cheater acceptable.Apply anti sieze on reassembly.
I'm going to try to save the nuts, if possible. Will just heating the nut with a torch help? Get it red hot, or just hot? What is "black pipe" made of? Is there another name for it? Is it something I can get a Lowe's or Home Depot? I'm pretty new at frozen nuts this size. Fortunatly, I have a 42mm impact socket, so I'm in good shape as far as that goes.
 
Red hot on one side is sufficent,melt wax into it."black pipe" is steel pipe used for natural gas.It has a black coating.Get it
at a hardware store,or plumbing supply place.However any steel tube will work. I have used the same 1 1/2" thinwall square tube
for 30 years. It's around 4' long,but could be longer.Go see one of your buddys.Somebody will have a chunk of pipe laying
around.
 
You will be better off just to cut the old nut off and buy new ones. If by heating you do get them loose they will not tighten up and hold and you will start to destroy your new blades. I have taken a 4 1/2" angle grinder with the cutting disk to take those nuts off, just hold it sow it does not take the threads off and cut one side, then turn and cut a second side and you will be able to knock them loose with a big hammer. Heat will distort that nut so it will not be smoth enough to get a tight fit for reuse. And that grinder you will not destroy the axle as likely with a torch. And if they are that hard to get off you are not going to be able to hold the gang from turning even if you put a 10' cheater on the wrench. Will just turn the gang. How did the shipping come out on those blades?
 
(quoted from post at 07:59:07 05/23/16) You will be better off just to cut the old nut off and buy new ones. If by heating you do get them loose they will not tighten up and hold and you will start to destroy your new blades. I have taken a 4 1/2" angle grinder with the cutting disk to take those nuts off, just hold it sow it does not take the threads off and cut one side, then turn and cut a second side and you will be able to knock them loose with a big hammer. Heat will distort that nut so it will not be smoth enough to get a tight fit for reuse. And that grinder you will not destroy the axle as likely with a torch. And if they are that hard to get off you are not going to be able to hold the gang from turning even if you put a 10' cheater on the wrench. Will just turn the gang. How did the shipping come out on those blades?
It was $103 total for shipping...not too bad. Unfortunately, despite our going to the trouble to find a place that sold the 1 1/8" square holes, they sent the 1 1/8 x 1 1/4" ones! They offered to exchange, but I didn't notice until I'd unloaded them. It's just too much trouble to reload, haul them back to the truck depot, wait for the exchange, etc. They said that as long as I kept them tight, it would not matter. I figure that's true. Wonder why people just can't do right?
 
(quoted from post at 07:59:07 05/23/16) You will be better off just to cut the old nut off and buy new ones. If by heating you do get them loose they will not tighten up and hold and you will start to destroy your new blades. I have taken a 4 1/2" angle grinder with the cutting disk to take those nuts off, just hold it sow it does not take the threads off and cut one side, then turn and cut a second side and you will be able to knock them loose with a big hammer. Heat will distort that nut so it will not be smoth enough to get a tight fit for reuse. And that grinder you will not destroy the axle as likely with a torch. And if they are that hard to get off you are not going to be able to hold the gang from turning even if you put a 10' cheater on the wrench. Will just turn the gang. How did the shipping come out on those blades?
So, if'n I go buy an angle grinder, pneumatic or electric? Any special blade for this? Carpentry power tools, I know. This, not so much.
 
If the impact gun made no 'impact' then you didn't have enough gun.... A high grade 3/4" gun with a 1/2" line feeding it will generally do
those things in quite well. Sometimes I'll heat the nut till it glows if it won't move it.
If I have to use a breaker I use something with at least 6' of pipe if I'm jumping on it or 10-12' if I work it by hand.

Rod
 
(quoted from post at 14:50:04 05/23/16) If the impact gun made no 'impact' then you didn't have enough gun.... A high grade 3/4" gun with a 1/2" line feeding it will generally do
those things in quite well. Sometimes I'll heat the nut till it glows if it won't move it.
If I have to use a breaker I use something with at least 6' of pipe if I'm jumping on it or 10-12' if I work it by hand.

Rod
It SAYS it's a 650 lb/ft of torque gun. Maybe 500 lb/ft + 50 years of rust = more than 650?
 
I just tore an IH 35-A disc apart that hadn't been touched in years. I use 2 18-24" pipe wrenches. Put a 6' 2" pipe over the handle and bounce it. That didn't work on the one so I
used my torches and heated it red hot. A butane/propane torch will work as well just longer. When its real hot hit it with PB Blaster and it'll pull it into the threads the more you
add. Putting a wax candle on the threads will work too. Just takes a lot of tinkering to get it off.
 
I have several harbor freight electric units, one with the 1/15" thick cutting blade, one with the 4 1/2" diameter grinding wheel, 2 with different types of wire brushes. Handiest thing on the farm. If they last only one year they are still as cheap as the better Quality ones. Watch for their sales and you can pick up a 10 pack of the cutting blades for $6.00 or the 5 pack for $5.00 I only buy the 10 pack and I probably have 60-70 of the blades on hand. Extension cord a lot easier to handle than a air hose. Had an air unit before the electric came out but did not have enough ait capacity to run for more than 30 seconds and had to wait for compressor to catch up. On those blades make sure you got the thickness that is supposed to be because that size blade with that hole configuration is likely to be a thicker blade. Probably were out of the correct 1 1/8" square hole and the 1 or 1 1/8" combo hole so to not loose a sale sent these. Yes that hole will work but the 1 - 1 1/8" combo would have been better.
 
4 1/4 electric angle grinder. A'cuttoff' disk is needed. You will a need a high volume air compressor for an air grinder.You can
often find cheap Chinese for under 20 bucks. Buy two_One for grinding,one for cutting.
 
I found a clearance Bosch on sale at Lowe's with a one year warranty. I also got a 6', 1" black pipe. The cutter will help me get the nut off, and the 6' pipe will get me back up to proper torque when I'm done. If my math is right, a 6' pipe will only require 83 lb/ft of torque at the end of the pipe. I figure I can handle that pretty easily.
 
I don't know how much torque the spec calls for.... but my suggestion is that you crank on it until you can't hold the gang still anymore,
then jump on it... then hammer the gang... then tighten it again. You can't get them too tight.

Rod
 
(quoted from post at 09:55:00 05/24/16) I don't know how much torque the spec calls for.... but my suggestion is that you crank on it until you can't hold the gang still anymore,
then jump on it... then hammer the gang... then tighten it again. You can't get them too tight.

Rod
The manual says 500 ft/lbs. I don't have a torque wrench that goes that far up, so I plan to use your idea.
 
I bought a 1 1/8" thread chaser for about
$35 off the Internet and just cleaned the
original threads
Then I was able to drill 3 of the axles to
use castle nuts and cotter pins to lock
them. The one that wouldn't drill I used
double nuts
 
(quoted from post at 08:44:21 05/28/16) I bought a 1 1/8" thread chaser for about
$35 off the Internet and just cleaned the
original threads
Then I was able to drill 3 of the axles to
use castle nuts and cotter pins to lock
them. The one that wouldn't drill I used
double nuts
That's a good idea. I have a few motorcycle axels the use that technique. Seems to hold everything in place.
 
(quoted from post at 09:55:00 05/24/16) I don't know how much torque the spec calls for.... but my suggestion is that you crank on it until you can't hold the gang still anymore,
then jump on it... then hammer the gang... then tighten it again. You can't get them too tight.

Rod
All 4 gang bolts are off. While I know I'm a long way from done, to quote Churchill, getting those 4 bolts off was to me, "the end of the beginning." Thanks to all for the help thus far.
 

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