Hesston 1010 hydroswing swather

pms

Member
Looked at this hay mower yesterday.Seller hooked to tractor and it ran smooth.So I pulled it home.Should be fun to play with...think I'm gonna like being able to cut on both sides of the tractor.Also like the hydraulic drive design.
Bought it as a backup mower and because the price was right.Can't wait to try it out!

Paul
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I had one of those. I kind of kicked myself for trading it off instead of just replacing everything on the cutterbar,but I was in the mood for something new. I should have fought the feeling.
 
I used to run two 1014's that were well used when I got them. Most underrated hay cutter out there.
 
The 1014 had augers and short rollers didn't they? The 1010 rollers were the full width of the machine.
 
Full length rollers on this 1010,rubber on top,steel on the bottom.Rubber is in good condition,noticed that the rollers don't quit intermesh.Wonder if that is even an issue as long as there is pressure between the rollers.My other hay mower is a Deere disc mower with impeller conditioner that works real well cutting and drying down grass hay.Had a NH haybine before that.Tough to beat a disc mower/conditioner though.I think the Hesston will make a good backup mower plus I like the nostalgia of an older Hesston swather being pulled by a IH Farmall 656!
 
We have had 2 of that model. The rubber roller began shedding the rubber. The 2 rollers should not touch each other, They turn at different speeds "skuffing" the crop to give it faster dry down. Eventually you will replace a bearing on the end of one of the roller shafts. Plan on using a torch to get that bearing off.

We have moved on to the NH discbine machine now, but any discbine sure takes a lot of Hp compared to the sickle cutter of the 1010. If you have the Hp, you will be able to cut faster with a discbine. But watch out for rocks and expensive back windows of the tractor cab. The sickle may break a tooth from a rock, but it does not throw it through the cab window.

With the swing tongue, you can cut your fields in a more efficient pattern. We made 6 continuous loops around the field perimeter, and then worked from one side to the other, alternating the cutter left to right. The continuous loops give us headlands for turning around at the ends. We always tried to cut in pairs of rows because our wheel rakes were 2 rows wide. You should match the width of your rake to the size of the cutterbar. For us, this meant a 12 wheel rake, but we also made our own custom width rake for turning 2 rows simultaneously but not pulling them together (faster dry down in heavy crop).

Paul in MN
 
Don't know what the CaseIH version is - but if there was one, you can with credit card download a pdf manual from the CaseIH website.

As for the rollers, if they are anything like my Hesston 1110 (and 1120), the adjustment/timing is very straightforward and simple.

Below is a link to a post I made documenting timing/adjusting my rollers. It conditions beautifully now.

The manual for my Hesston is one of the best written manuals I've ever seen/used.

Good luck,
Bill
Hesston Roller Adjustment Timing
 
I used one many years ago- worked very well. To open the field I ran it straight behind the tractor, then switched to the side. Doesn"t matter, either way you run over some hay. Nice to get it out of the way right away. Was nice for splitting the field, and cut like an SP swather.
 
I know where one of these is locally for cheap, guy used it last year but is stored outside. No reason it shouldn't work fine. Thinking about selling my Deere 1209 to get the Hesston 1010. Main thought is being able to get it in small fields with narrow gates.
 

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