Hesston 1110 Update 5-11-2016

Bill VA

Well-known Member
Got away from the salt mine today to spend a few minutes with the Hesston 1110 tonight.

Replaced a bolt on knife and what a pain in the buttox. I assumed, unbolt and the knife blade comes off, but had to take the guard off too as I couldn't wiggle it out! Finally got it all back together without slicing off a finger.....

I wanted to give the haybine a try and see how the newely timed rollers and their gap setting was going to work out. The rolls are much quieter - not sure they are contributing to the noise at this point.

Ran the haybine over some stemmy orchard grass to see how the crimping did - and I've got the rolls spaced to far apart. They are set to about 3/16 inch and I'm not getting much in the way of crimping at all. My manual doesn't state the gap distance, but it seems like someone posted their Hesston 1120 with similar rollers said 3/16 inch gap and as best I could, that's where I initially set the gap. I think what I'm going to do is via the roller spacing jack screws, let the rollers come together such that they touch enough until the jack screws are not doing anything and the rolls are fast against each other. Then - one turn of the thread at a time, I'll space them apart until I can slide the thickness of a strip from a gallon jug down the entire length - and then see how it sounds. If it is noisy, one turn at a time, I'll continue to adjust the rolls until they are as close as possible, yet not touching. Even though there are slots on each side of the roller you can see the gap, I think this will give me more of a custom/close fit.

One thing to note with the 1110 (and 1120) steel/rubber rollers is there is a LOT of gap between the lobes side to side - where as a New Holland's rubber on rubber rollers are more of a tight fit IMHO. As such, I feel it's important to get the Hesston rollers as tight as possible to maximize the crimp depth as not much crushing IMHO goes on with these rolls.

Noise: Most of it I believe is the reel assy roaring as the steel rollers are rolling on a steel track. As was mentioned in another post, rollers made of plastic (?) or plastic covered rolls (?) are available. We'll see how it goes this cutting year before I replace them.

Lastly, I set the mower to lay the hay out in a wide swath. I had my doubts about this - as if you look at the rear end of the haybine, the exit panels are narrow, ideal for windrowing. However, to my surprise, it laid the grass out really wide, maybe to wide.

More timpnkering tomorrow evening.

Bill
 
Last year I ran a NH 489 and had the windrow set close. This year I bought a Hesston 1120 and plan to run the windrow as wide as I can w/o running over the windrow. I want to get as much sun and wind on the windrow before tedding as possible. In the Shenandoah Valley (I am just west of Harrisonburg Va) it seems like the more the hay is spread out the better it dries.
 
The issue with bolted sections is normal...if you can"t move the knife side-to-side, a guard has to come off. No big deal, still way simpler than trying to replace rivets. Regarding the windrow adjustment- mocos can typically be set for a wide or narrow windrow. The New Holland I had in the 70s had a baffle ahead of the discharge that was very easy to adjust for that.
 
To get the knives off,just lift one end up so it clears the top of the guard,reach up and turn a roll and move the knife over while you guide the section up and off. It works everywhere except where there's a hold down clip. I know it's hard to believe,but you don't need to run those rolls close. They kink the stems,that's all. You'll have to see for yourself,but just doing that and it'll dry a day faster than it will from a New Holland. I had mine for 22 years and I never adjusted the rolls. They were still set where they were from the dealer when I got rid of it.
 
ok I have a couple of questions for you,,,,the crimping rolls do not actually mesh with eachother do they? you 1110 looks like a newer version of a 1070,or 1090,,,if I remember I think I set my rollers at aprox 1/8 gap.on mine they were not supposed to touch. if yours is real noisy you need to check the sickle drive,,,does yours have adouble drive belt from a gearbox down to a lower pulley that drives the sickle?
 
",,,the crimping rolls do not actually mesh with eachother do they?"

Yes there is a rubber and steel roller - they are designed to mesh - see the pic. Those peaks and valleys intermeshing are what crimp/kinks the hay stem. The rolls should not be touching. IMHO their primary function is to break stems, not crush stems or leaves. Of course if the hay is thick, some crushing is going to happen. These Hesston rubber on steel rolls and their design is kind of interesting to me. IMHO - they square with a lot of what I've read/experienced with hay conditioning or the lack of it. I gather that generally, regardless of the crop, leaves don't need to be conditioned, stems are the real culprit in making the hay as a whole dry evenly - be it grass hay or legumes. Mash the leaves and stem at the same time and they don't dry evenly and leaf loss occurs. Many will say that given the nature of second cutting grass hay that conditioning isn't necessary as it's all leaves vs stems. These Hesston rollers just strike me as stem breaking rolls and in "theory" it sounds like a great idea to me - grass or alfalfa/lugemes.

"...if yours is real noisy you need to check the sickle drive,,,does yours have adouble drive belt from a gearbox down to a lower pulley that drives the sickle? "

No gear box noise or bearings getting hot - I think I'm good there. The sickle does have some hammering, which I will address. I believe most of the noise is simply the reel - steel rollers rolling in a steel track - making a roaring sound at this point. Mine does have a double belt drive from the gearbox to the half swaybar.

Thanks,
Bill
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Thanks for the tip!

I haven't read or found much on these Hesston 1110 / 1120 type steel on rubber rollers vs the traditional New Holland rubber rollers.

I gather the Super C rollers that are sold aftermarket are designed to crush everything, including stems. My understanding is they require much roll contact/pressure to crush the stem. The Hesston rollers IMHO simply snap the stem like snapping a pencil. I guess the difference and where the Hesston rollers would suffer is on a discbine application where the stems are not necessarily flowing through the rollers butt first for a nice crimp.

You bought a new disc mower conditioner? Does it have rolls or flails and how does the conditioning results compare to your old 1120?

Thanks again,
Bill
 
ok those are different than the one I had,,,,you need to check the lower drive where the sickle mounts to should be pulley on the front and balancer on the rear make sure this is all tight and that the housing is not broke loose from frame,,,that will cause it to knock also
 
Those other style rollers were used on the Hesston built CaseIH mower/conditioners if I'm not mistaken. CaseIH wanted them that way because that's what they used in the ones they sold before they sourced them from Hesston.

When I bought mine new,the dealer told me the hay would be dry sooner than I thought. He said don't just drive by and let the color fool you. Get out and feel the hay,it'll be dry when it still looks green and wet. I had a New Holland discbine before I got the new Hesston. I was cutting with it and it took a crap. I went and got the Hesston,pulled back in the field and finished cutting. The Hesston cut hay was ready a day sooner than the New Holland cut hay that was cut earlier the same day.

My new Kuhn has flails. It takes a full day longer to dry than the Hesston rolls did. I can cut a lot faster,but I'm giving up a days time on the other end.
 
For setting the rolls, use the three sheets of newspaper rule. Three sheets of newspaper run through the rolls unharmed, tighten them down . Lay a handful of hay across your arm. If crimped enough, the hay will droop; if not enough crimp, the hay will stay stiff across your arm.
 

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