Hesston Mower Conditioner Set-Up???

Bill VA

Well-known Member
Don't know if we'll get to it this weekend, but high on the list now is pulling our newly acquired (from several months ago) Hesston 1110 - 7 ft mower conditioner out and getting it tuned up and ready to go - if there is such a thing.....

Got the manual - beyond that, any tips, tricks or other sage advice regarding adjustment/servicing?

This mower conditioner has the rubber top roller and steel bottom roller - both intermesh with each other. I'll be checking the gap on that too. The sickle sections are riveted type and the guards are standard rock guards - look to be Hesston vs aftermarket.

Never been around a Hesston machine. Seen New Holland haybines with the rubber rollers conditioning hay. The Hesston steel on rubber rollers lugs look taller/deeper than the New Holland rubber chevron rollers. Hoping the Hesston will do as good a job as the New Holland type rollers.

Any sage preseason advice on setting up this Hesston 1110 is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Bill
 
You can kinda get the timing off a little bit on those rollers if the chain gets worn and is tightened too much. I had to jump the chain one link on mine one time. I'm talking about the little short chain that runs between the two. After it's good and tight,make sure the point of the steel bars are coming down right center between the lugs on the rubber rolls so they don't tear up the rubber.
 
The best advice read the manual like you would read a good book thats what I do every year before I start up a certain piece of equipment but I like reading the manuals for fun especially if they are the old ones and have saftey cartoons . You'll be very happy with your choice to purchase a Hesston the prime line
 
Will you be using it in alfalfa or grass hay. If it is alfalfa, look at the stems after cutting 300 feet. They should be somewhat flattend. If they are not remove shimd until they are. If grass don't worry about it, just mow and rake. .
 
Bill, I don't think there is much you can do ahead of time different than you did with your sickle bar. Check the knife- sections good/tight, holddowns adjusted properly, bearings, belts, chains okay, etc.. When you check the roll gap check several places along the rolls and rotate to check if it changes - invariably there always seems to be some bow to them just try for a happy medium not too tight not too loose. Also their may be an adjustment for tension on the rolls, make sure it's free so you can adjust it when in the field if needed. If the rock guards plug for you keep an eye out for some cheap stub guards, should do better. Also don't forget to look over the skid shoes for wear and set the same (I have seen them set different heights).
 
With any sickle style cutter I like to start the year with a new sickle and use the old one for backup.They're never as sharp as you think they are in the machine.
 
Has the machine been used recently? Check the guards if they are worn or rounded off on the cutting edge, I would replace them with stub guards it makes a big difference. If you take the knife out replace the rivets with bolts you can change a section if you break one with short guards. The rolls we used to check the clearance with a thin putty knife or should be able to slip a piece of paper between them. Check the spring tension on the head you should be able to pick up on the front guard bar and pick the head up a little when it is sitting on the ground, this will let it just bounce over a rock or big ground hog hill. They are a good machine have fun.
 
Thanks for the replies.

Cold as blue blazes here, spent a little time reading over the owners manual again. The half sway bar sickle drive is truely a simple mechanism and the manual is one of the best written for the DYI person I've ever seen.

Took a few minutes and looked at the cutter bar. I was thinking the sickle sections were riveted, but turns out they are bolt-on. Guards are aftermarket and are stamped with MCM 245. I did a google search and found Farm and Fleet sells them. Description says forged and heat treated. I've read that Hesston brand guards are very good. As it is, the guards and sickle sections look to be in excellent shape, almost new, so that's one refresh/refurb expense I can avoid for now.

One of the skid shoes is in need of repair. There are two clips that hold the front most part of them flush with the sickle bar assy. The slot is broken out - will have to reweld that - doesn't look to difficult.

Only spent a few minutes with the machine, more later.

On another note, the timothy is starting to come on nicely.

Thanks again,
Bill
 
Bill, do you guys have the mites in your area? Couple years ago they were real bad around here, only time I think we ever sprayed grass hay for bugs. Just about cleaned out everyone's Timothy.
 
You will like the rubber on steel roll. I had New Holland rubber on rubber rolls and while I believe they are good I find I am able to get the hay dry a day faster and I am now running a wider machine. Hesston makes a good mower.
 

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