Brush Hog Blade Sharpening

JeffScott

Member
Hi guys,

I've acquired my first brush hog (5' Bush Hog) and have a question about the blades. I'll be cutting tall grass, no brush to speak of. How sharp should I grind the blades? Right now they are super dull and don't look like they ever have had a grind on them.

Maybe a dumb question, but I've never owned one before.

Thanks,

Jeff
 

If you can still see the factory angle, follow that and get them sharp. I've never figured out why anyone seems to think you can get a cutting tool "too sharp". Sharp always cuts with less effort than dull. The blades will dull over time even in grass.
 
Sharpen them up good. I block mine up and get under there with a 9" grinder. Sure makes a difference.
 
Some don't like the blades sharp when cutting brush they like it to shatter the trunk
rather than cut it. Saves on cut tires.
 
(quoted from post at 07:51:06 04/08/16)
If you can still see the factory angle, follow that and get them sharp. I've never figured out why anyone seems to think you can get a cutting tool "too sharp". Sharp always cuts with less effort than dull. The blades will dull over time even in grass.

I was taught razor sharp cutting edge on mower will dull faster than kinda sharp because razor edge tends to bend over rather than stay straight edge.
 
My book calls for a 1/16 flat on the edge not knife sharp like has been said knife sharp will not hold up very long.
 
(quoted from post at 09:52:48 04/08/16) My book calls for a 1/16 flat on the edge not knife sharp like has been said knife sharp will not hold up very long.

This makes sense. I think I'll try it.

Thanks to everyone for the replies!

Jeff
 
Safety first: be sure the large nut holding the stump jumper (large dish looking thing the blades are attached too) is tight and has the cotter key
in place and in good order, you do not want this thing coming loose,
Next be sure the bolts holding your blades to the stump jumper have cotter keys in place, if the bolts have a key hole, many of the cheaper
cutters use locking nuts to hold the blades in place, ( these locking nuts are one use nuts, if you ever take them loose replace with new nuts,

If you crawl up under the cutter to sharpen the blades, do not trust the lift system to hold up the cutter, block it up so its can not fall on you,

Now you can think about sharping the blades, if they are real dull as you say,
I use a 4" grinder, may take a while to get them reasonably sharp, you do not need them super sharpe, just get a good edge on them as
mentioned above then give them a try, you are not cutting the front yard,

Last year my buddies blades and stump jumper came off his cutter as he was hogging, was a real trip for him, he now checks all nuts and keys
at each fuel fill up,

Be safe, rotary cutters and chain saws are about the most dangerous tools most of us use around the farm,
 
I agree with this post. My book says to put a good even and sharp edge on the blade. Then turn the grinder up 90 degrees and flatten the edge so it is 1/16 to no more than an 1/8 of an inch wide. To me, that is making a frail out of it.
 
(quoted from post at 13:37:40 04/08/16)
(quoted from post at 07:51:06 04/08/16)
If you can still see the factory angle, follow that and get them sharp. I've never figured out why anyone seems to think you can get a cutting tool "too sharp". Sharp always cuts with less effort than dull. The blades will dull over time even in grass.

I was taught razor sharp cutting edge on mower will dull faster than kinda sharp because razor edge tends to bend over rather than stay straight edge.

It's going to depend on the angle you sharpen at. The flatter/narrower the angle, the less support it has and the easier it bends or dulls. A steeper angle can be brought to the same sharpness but has more support. None of them are going to stay "razor" sharp. You aren't going to get "razor" sharp on any type of mower blade.
 

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