NH Super Hayliner 69

MCoe

Member
I am having an issue with a New Holland Super Hayliner 69 square baler. It wants to bale crooked. One side tighter than the other. Before anyone says it, yes I know I adjust the string tension on each side of the chute with the hand cranks. The baler will bale fine for a while then it will go crooked and I keep tightening the one side down but I am almost bottomed out on the one crank and only a third of the way in on the other. I was told it could possibly be a wore out guide, need advice.
 
I will check that. It sat out in the weather with hay in it because the chute is rusted out pretty bad. I just bought it in September and baled a small field of 2nd cut with it. Just trying to get it baling good. It does a great job other than that.
 
(quoted from post at 10:35:17 02/15/16) Before anyone says it, yes I know I adjust the string tension on each side of the chute with the hand cranks.

IMHO - cranking down the bale tension is never the remedy for banana bales with a New Holland baler.

Banana bales are caused generally from not having enough hay in the LH side of the bale chamber.

First thing - as was mentioned, check the hay dog springs.

Second, measure your aluminum feeder tine forks. They should be 13ish inches long, but over time and unnoticed, can wear down several inches. If they are short, they will not deliver hay to the far side of the bale chamber.

Third, the plunger to stationary knife clearance should be something on the order of 1/32 inch. If there's a big gap, hay will be pulled into the bale chamber by the knife, increasing hay on the RH side of the bale chamber.

Fourth, if all the above is OK, then you can adjust your left most feeder tines (and maybe the middle ones with it) to the RIGHT (counterintuitive) and it will put more hay into the LH side of the baler.

Fifth, biggish windrows, not huge, but full - feed the pick up to the left side of the pickup.

Lastly, I believe the S69 is essentially a 68 with roller bearings on the pickup vs wooden slides. My 68 is a much better baler when I'm running it full 540 PTO rpm and getting 15ish flakes to a bale.

We did a refurb on our 68 last year and fixed/adjusted the items above (less the feeder tines as ours were Ok) and pounded out beautiful brick shaped bales over the summer.

Fine baler you've got. Don't hesitate with any questions.

Good luck,
Bill
 
I really appreciate all of this!!! My father in law
bought a Massey Ferguson 12 baler this past spring
and it worked ok. We have knot issues, they keep
hanging up in the bill hooks. I bought the NH baler,
a 256 rake and a Galfre 2 spool 3 point hitch tedder
for $1800 and the tedder and rake are in excellent
shape. The baler has a lot of rust issues I am
working on, it ties perfectly and everything works
like it should. I will check all of those point and see
what I come up with. How did you know that the
right side was getting more hay???
 
All of the advise is 'spot on'.Do you have a book? if not,buy one NOW.About 40 bucks. The best investment for your baler. Another thing that can help is to add another set of feeder forks.Did that to a 282 once. You wouldn't believe the improvement.Count strokes per bale.I aim for 20 spb. Shift up at 25,shift down at 15.You results will vary. A smooth consistent feed is critical,especially on a smaller baler.There is a lot more to baling hay than just driveing down a windrow.
 
I don't have a book yet, the guy I got it off of was going to take a torch to it and take it in for scrap. He knew nothing about working on them. I rebuilt a Massey Ferguson 12 but the New Holland is way different and in my opinion way better.
 
We had a 269 when I was growing up where the plunger guide was worn and it affected how it packed the bale. Otherwise big windrows and make sure the feeder is getting hay all the way into the bale chamber.
 
Like another poster says adjustment of the cranks is not the solution. They control the pressure on the bars above and below the center of the bale chamber. They control the density of the bale, and should be adjusted approximately evenly. Banana bales are primarily the result of uneven filling of hay into chamber. Firstly, feed a good even windrow at a moderate speed. Then working on the solutions other posters propose.
 
Have a mf120 baler newer twine is not as strong, mine does the same untill it gets polished try using plastic twine I have better luck with it.
 
"How did you know that the right side was getting more hay???"

Firstly - IMHO the MF12 is a very good baler. I'd try to fix it, if nothing else, for a back-up.

Banana bales is the sign yoou have more hay on the RH side of the baler than the left.

Here is a link to a New Holland brochure for the models 67 and 69

http://www.nnalert.com/PDF/newholland.pdf

And a video I've posted before of our 68 baling after the refurb.

http://youtu.be/Hj7ziy8NTU0

Bill
New Holland 68 Baling
 
On most balers I have worked on the twine getting hung up on the bill hooks is cause by a miss-adjusted twine knife or a dull one. The knife need to be nice and sharp and the part forget what it is call that past close to the bill hook has to pass by and be so close it almost rubs the bill hook
 
A lot simpler to just buy a John Deere Baler! Iv run
JD 327, 336 and now a 346, never ever seen a
banna bale out of any of the 3. Lol
 
Sooner or later any color baler will give you fits - even a John Deere. You're on you're 3rd JD baler?. Inspite of that I still bought a JD 348 as I feel any tuned baler will make bricks. Had a deal on a MF/Hesston inline, or late model New Holland came along, I'd have bought one. The 348 deal came first, so I bought it. Had nothing to do with making a better bale than my ancient 68. I wanted a 2nd baler for a backup.. The 69 baler, like my 68 is over 50 years old. I doubt you'd buy a 327, 336 or 346 (in my neck of the woods) for the same price. I paid $550 for my 68, put $1,000 in parts, including new tires and needles for $1,550 total. It may not have the capacity of newer balers, but it will keep the stackers on the wagon very busy and based on last years success, I'd put my bale shape up against any baler, new or old.

Also once you get the feeder tines adjusted, knife sharp and clearance to stationary right, the only thing left is to feed the baler to the LH side of the pickup. JD recommends feeding to the right per my 348 baler's manual. Not very complicated IMHO.

I know JD makes a great bale, but IMHO a properly maintained/tuned NH is just as good. I'd have zero hesitation buying either.

Life is good when any baler is cranking out bricks - ready for spring!

Bill
 
Well I'm on my 3rd baler because the farm had the brand new 327 reopoed, then they bought the used 336, then again had money problems sold it and got out of haying, so I bought a IH 37, used it for 1 season then bought my JD 346 at auction 9 years ago for $1000, fixed it up and never looked back.
 
Had same problem replaced fork feeding the bale chamber. problem solved. I was amazed how much had worn off the length of those forks.
 
Jay,

Here is a link to a PAMI Test Report on the JD 346 baler - very good read.

http://pami.ca/pdfs/reports_research_updates/(4a)%20Balers%20and%20Baler%20Attachments/135.PDF

IMHO - the 346 is an excellent baler, hope my 348 can live up to it!

Thanks,
Bill
JD 346 PAMI Test Report
 
I did some looking today and this is what I found, the forks are roughly 10" long with about 2-3/4" gap between the tips and the floor of the baler. Second, the left hand hay dog is broke off flush with the top of the chute. The right side is the side getting too much hay. I am going to take to good dog off and use it as a template then fire the plasma cutter up and make 2 new ones just in case. Any other advice is appreciated. Also the knife gap is a little wide, how do I adjust it? I don't have a book yet.
 
If you're in a pinch for a manual - with a credit card, you can download a PDF of the manual from New Holland - quick and painless. I've done this with my New Holland 68 and keep it on my tablet. If I'm getting everything greasy, I print the pages I need - but the tablet is handy to have when working on the baler.

Second thing is to look at the New Holland parts website. They have free downloadable PDF's of the parts list and exploded illustrations. They go a long way towards visualizing what is stated in the manual.

On the 68 - two ways to adjust the knife, maybe 3. Shim the knife on the plunger and/or shim the stationary too. The other way is to look at the LH side of the bale chamber. There are jack screws that are used to push the top and bottom rails and with it the plunger, knife in tow, over to the stationary. I think the 69 is the same. One difference is the 67 and 68 balers had wooden slides vs bearings. Over time, the wooden slides wear and adjustment is needed for the plunger to stationary knife. Not how there would be wear with the 69 with the roller bearings - unless one was seized and ground a groove into the guide rails. The plunger is easy to remove - now might be a good time to do so and inspect the roller bearings, as well as sharpen the knife.

Make sure you're haydog springs are in good shape too.

Good luck,
Bill
 
Hay dog springs felt good, the one dog is broke so I am going to take the good one off and lay it down on a piece of 1/2" plate and trace it, then fire up my plasma cutter and make a new dog. I will check on shimming it.
 

I don't think that I have ever seen anyone advised to fix banana bales with tension adjusters.
 
It seemed like everyone I talked to told me to crank
them down. I guess they didn't realize how bad the
bales were
 
When I first gave my NH68 a spin, fingers were crossed, rolled it over several times through the tie cycle manually - all seemed OK. Fired up the trusty MF50 diesel, at idle, eased on the PTO and all good - though a little clanky...

One of my best friends was with me that day - we had set out several old bales of hay to feed into the baler with a pitch fork to see if it would form-up a bale an tie.

Baler tied great! Bales were bananas. My close friend wedged himself between me and the baler and simultaneously told me I need to crank the spring way down on the long side of the bale - while he was cranking it!

I'm no expert - but I read as much as I can on these forums and other, ask WAY to many questions. However, I want to know (with respect to the baler) how it works, why it works and why it fails!

Right off the bat, I knew the problem wasn't cranking the springs. My buddy had never touched a square baler - but that day, he was an expert - or so he thought. I knew it was something else, i.e. broken hay dog springs, knife clearance - something other than those springs - LOL! My buddy thought I was an idiot (which for the most part is correct... LOL)

I still have much to learn and experience to gain - but two things I've learned up to now when it comes to haying and others I know personally that do it. Most are more lucky than informed. Their baler just happens to work. It was that way when they bought it or when the NH mechanic fixed it or Uncle Lewy fixed it, but didn't have a clue what he was doing or why - lucky. Second (and not to be disparaging), I've meet a number of "hay farmers" who have been baling hay for "30 years". What they're really telling me is they've baled hay 30 times.

I said all that to say this - take everybody's advice with a grain of salt, including mine - but definitely seek it out. Read and ask and know you're baler. I believe the late Hugh McKay baled with a Super 69 and this forum is loaded with some great stories and wisdom about that baler - back in the day, as well as others. This sight IMHO is better than most any (again not to be disparaging) dealer baler mechanic today.

Again - ask away! IMHO the S69 is a very good baler.

Post some pics - and videos - once you get going.

Good luck,
Bill
 
One thing that really helped me with my old Super 68 - check the knife clearance, and sharpen/shim up the stationary knife if necessary. After trying everything else, this was the ONLY thing that improved bale shape for me!
 

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