JD Baler Slip Clutch Adjustment

Bill VA

Well-known Member
Read several posts on making sure the slip clutch is adjusted on a Deere square baler.

High on the to-do list on my 348 is to make sure the slip clutch is adjusted and definitely not rusted/stuck before we begin baling.

The manual says, "Check clutch slippage using a spring gauge and 10ft lever attached to power shaft. Exert force at 90 degree angle."

Understand the 10ft lever as doubt anyone has a short handled torque wrench to handle the 550 (for cat 4 driveline) ft lbs torque or 600 (for cat 5 driveline) ft lb torque setting.

Are you setting your torque as per the JD manual and what are you hooking the lever to - how are you grasping the front of the PTO input to the slip clutch? Are you removing the PTO shaft and holding the spline input shaft on the slip clutch? I assume the slip clutch is similar on all JD square balers from the 336 to the present?

Like to get this 348 off to a good start and I think the slip clutch check/adjustment is high on my list.

Thanks!
Bill
 
Every spring before haying I slacken off the spring bolts, block the plunger head with a block of wood in the knives and run the PTO for a few seconds. You just want to make sure the linings haven't rusted together over winter. Then set the springs back to the length in the manual. Another thing to check while you're doing this is make sure the overrunning clutch dogs aren't stuck or the bushing dry or worn in the slip clutch. When you shut the PTO off the baler should coast to a stop but the PTO shaft should stop with the tractor PTO brake. Just takes some stress off the PTO brake in the tractor it wasn't really designed for. I don't really worry about checking the torque I'm more concerned about the protection the slip clutch provides. If you get to the field and you're worried the clutch might be slipping check it once you get going with a laser thermometer.
 

Ditto what John stated or more sophisticated adjustment is to remove telescoping shaft in frt of carrier brg. There one will find a hex shaft then with the aid of a socket,torque multiplier & breaker bar with cheater pipe one can adjust slip clutch correctly which is about 550 ft#s. I was taught that slip clutch should slip a small amount with each stroke while baling.
 
Was thinking about this this morning doing chores while you're getting it ready for the field check that the crank safety stop isn't stuck and the feeder fork and needles are timed correctly to the plungerhead. Only takes a few minutes. If she's timed right then you know and if the safety stop is free and adjusted correctly it'll prevent some broken parts if something goes amiss.
 

I'll add to what John stated to be sure PH stop spring isn't broken as I've found several springs broken over the yrs I've operated/serviced JD sq balers
 
Put the bar through a convenient yoke in the driveline. Block the plunger or pin the flywheel if that is possible like a NH. Pull the spring scale at 90 degrees to the bar.
 
I would probably lean more towards backing the tension bolts off and blocking the plunger while you run the PTO for a bit to burnish the plates.
The slip clutch on a Deere does need to work. Also make sure the plunger head stop is free and working correctly. I'd worry about that a LOT MORE than the slip clutch.


Rod
 

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