Rollar bearings for wagon

Farmallb

Well-known Member
I have a iron wheeled high wheeled wagon that had roller bearings. They are all gone now, OR likely are, for the most of them. Some of the wheels shimmy when they should roll. Is there anyway I can figure out what size rollars I need to replace with. Don't know the name.
 
Sounds like you haven't yet taken it apart to see. Take it apart,try to find an intact(or mostly) intact bearing.Of if you can find just an end plate with brand/number.Take those to NAPA of a bearing house for a match.Would help to have a brand name.....
 
Your right. I havnt tried to take it apart. I know that SOME wagons have reverse thread on the L side. Theres no way to know when the nuts were taken off due to bearing failure. Im afraid I wont be able to notice the difference between it being rusted on and being reverse thread.
I have to admit, I wouldn"t have thought that NAPA or a bearing house, both of which I know the location of would have those bearings.
 
Are these straight roller bearings or tapered roller bearings. If straight they will probably run on the axle but have a race in the hub. If this just measure the axle (and the bottom will probably be wore flat from use, dependind on the way things are made it is possible the axle can be turned down and a race sleeve put on to get to round in orignal size.) to find diameter and then measure the hub size where the race slips in, will be a friction fit, then if there is any of the race left measure the thickness at the top as they do not wear there. Then measure the length of the hub and find out if only one long bearing or 2 shorter ones, most common. And I could get any size needed, standard or custom made. I have sent bearings for the maker from Ohio to northwest Canada already. Those went in a grain binder. He keeps standard sizes on hand all the time as they are used on a lot of the old horse drawn machines the Amish use and he is Amish.
And left hand threads are only used on the left side of things as that is designed to keep the nut tight so the forward motion of the wheel does not turn the nut off to be lost and wheel drop off.If there is a cotter in there it is highly unlickley to be a left hand thread. The left hand threads were used where you took the nut off and slid the wheel out to slap grease in on the axle, If bearings in there doughtfull if they are left hand thread because you would not take the wheel off to grease but have a grease zerk for that.
 
There is no place for a grease cup or zerk. There is no cotter key. Out of couresity, IF there WERE a grease cup on the L side, and, as you say there likely wouldn"t be a L hand thread on the L side because you wouldn"t take the wheel off 5to grease it, What would keep the hub nut from working off as the wheel turned counter clock wise??
 
Sounds to me like what you have is a skein type of hub that had do bearings in to start with, just a taper axle with matching taper in wheel hub. And on that type the axle nut on left side is left hand thread and to grease it you took off the nut and pulled the wheel out a ways and took a paddle and put a gob of grease on the axle and slid the wheel back on and put the nut back on. They all have a lot of play. And on them the forward motion of the wheels would try to turn the nut and with a left hand thread on the left side both sides would keep trying to tighten the nut while in operation. If you could back far enough eventually it would turn the nut off and you would loose a wheel. If the axle was replaced and turned around so that left hand nut was on the right side then the forward motion would turn the nut off going forward so you would loose a wheel. Once you get that wheel off I think you will find the outer end of axle (Skein) will be about 2 too 2 1/2" diameter, the insise end will be about 3 to 3 1/2" diameter with a length of 9 or 10" altho there were heaverier units that the length was 11" on. A picture of the wheel still on the wagon I could tell what type you have.
 

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