Manure spreader beaters

Doug Wi · Jan 30, 2016

It seems like I remember several guys on here saying they have rebuilt beaters using 4" tube. I have a NI3622 that I twisted the old rusted beater apart and plan on trying to make one. Looking for any tips anyone has before I start. Did you have any balance problems after welding the paddles on or does it turn slow enough that's not an issue? thanks

JMS/.MN · Jan 30, 2016

I had a JD, 680? 300 bu spreader. Rebuilt the beater with a 6 inch dia pipe. Waaay thicker than original. Drive end was unique so I re-used that. Made my own paddle mounts, and IIRC, local welding shop cut the new paddles. Was over 15 years ago, and sold it locally when I quit the dairy. Still working fine (hauling buffalo crap), and balance was never a problem. I just made sure the 4 rows of paddles were opposite each other, and the same number. I think two rows of 3, two rows of 4.

Brown Swiss · Jan 31, 2016

I put a new pipe in mine then used 2by2 angle iron to square it up and used 16 barn cleaner paddles for the paddles, using 4 rows of 4.

Don-Wi · Jan 31, 2016

I did the batter in our H&S 220 about 2 years ago. Used 4" square structural tube and ordered some 1/4 x 4" bar stock to make the end caps and pale mounts from. I also welded some angle iron to the back of the paddle mounts to brace them. Being a machinist,I welded up the mounts, then made a program to run in a machining center to mill the bottom straight and drill the holes so they're all exactly the same.

For the ends I milled holes in the plates, milled them to size and had to grind here & there to fit inside the tube. I welded the inside paste to the stub shaft, then stuck it inside, welding the outer paste to the tube and the shaft. Since it was a fairly snug fit, there wasn't any wobble in it. That should be where you focus the most on, because it will shake the spreader if it's not welded straight.

I put the beater in the spreader minus the paddles, and then started welding in the mounts. I alternated sides keeping everything as balanced as I could reusing the old paddles. It turned out great and would do it again if I had to. I think my costs were right around $100.

Donovan from Wisconsin

Doug Wi · Jan 31, 2016

thanks for the replies. I will be using 4" round tube because it will slip right over the original drive end. But I can see using square stock would make it a lot easier to weld on the paddles. "Brown swiss" how do the angle iron paddles work in heavily bedded pack manure? The original NI beater had very few paddles on it. Think I scrapped it, but have several other old beaters around that I plan on stealing the paddles from.

Brown Swiss · Feb 1, 2016

The barn cleaner paddles are holding up excellent, a couple bent some but that is cause I put to big of frozen chunks in the spreader, other wise it is very aggressive, they rip the bedding pack apart better then the original paddles, just does not throw it off to the side much. When I made mine I reused the right side end of the original beater shaft, the side with the bearing, about 4 or 5 inches cause it is just a plate welded on to the end of the pipe, so was worried about getting it strait. I butted the new pipe up to it with a pipe inside. The beater pipe has to be 4" ID , so I got a pipe inside 4" OD, left a space to weld all together, now the drive hub seemed to be 3 7/8" so I took a piece of 1/16 metal and formed around it to fit in like a sleeve, then got the hole drilled for the bolt put the bolt in and the welded the drive on to the pipe. Then put it in the spreader and welded the angle iron in in place with the shaft mounted in the spreader. Been using it for 3 years now with the new beater, cost was about 150 dollars, that includes 5 pounds of weld rods.

Manure spreader beaters

Doug Wi

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JMS/.MN

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Brown Swiss

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Don-Wi

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Doug Wi

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Brown Swiss

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