As I keep my radar up for a back- up baler (or one that will make my NH 68 a back-up), I'm wondering how easy, hard, simple or complex it is to adjust the plunger on other New Holland and Deere balers?
With my 68, there are a series of jack screws on the exterior of the case that push the plunger (and knife) over against the stationary knife. Hardest part is unsticking the rusted screws - LOL!
What about later New Hollands like the 311, 273, 316 type balers? How easy is it to adjust the plunger on a Deere 336, 327, 348 type balers?
Or - does the plunger/knife ever need adjusted for clearance? By that, I mean - on my 68, the wooden plunger slides will wear down, so plunger/knife adjustment is always going to be necessary to some extent. However, these later NH and JD balers run on roller bearings (I assume), so between no friction and roller on steel, maybe adjustment of the plunger/knife is not a frequent - if ever needed adjustment?
How easy/hard is it to adjust/move your baler's plunger/knife over to the stationary knife?
Just curious.
Thanks,
Bill
With my 68, there are a series of jack screws on the exterior of the case that push the plunger (and knife) over against the stationary knife. Hardest part is unsticking the rusted screws - LOL!
What about later New Hollands like the 311, 273, 316 type balers? How easy is it to adjust the plunger on a Deere 336, 327, 348 type balers?
Or - does the plunger/knife ever need adjusted for clearance? By that, I mean - on my 68, the wooden plunger slides will wear down, so plunger/knife adjustment is always going to be necessary to some extent. However, these later NH and JD balers run on roller bearings (I assume), so between no friction and roller on steel, maybe adjustment of the plunger/knife is not a frequent - if ever needed adjustment?
How easy/hard is it to adjust/move your baler's plunger/knife over to the stationary knife?
Just curious.
Thanks,
Bill