Plunger Adjustment

Bill VA · Dec 27, 2015

As I keep my radar up for a back- up baler (or one that will make my NH 68 a back-up), I'm wondering how easy, hard, simple or complex it is to adjust the plunger on other New Holland and Deere balers?

With my 68, there are a series of jack screws on the exterior of the case that push the plunger (and knife) over against the stationary knife. Hardest part is unsticking the rusted screws - LOL!

What about later New Hollands like the 311, 273, 316 type balers? How easy is it to adjust the plunger on a Deere 336, 327, 348 type balers?

Or - does the plunger/knife ever need adjusted for clearance? By that, I mean - on my 68, the wooden plunger slides will wear down, so plunger/knife adjustment is always going to be necessary to some extent. However, these later NH and JD balers run on roller bearings (I assume), so between no friction and roller on steel, maybe adjustment of the plunger/knife is not a frequent - if ever needed adjustment?

How easy/hard is it to adjust/move your baler's plunger/knife over to the stationary knife?

Just curious.

Thanks,
Bill

Tx Jim · Dec 27, 2015

(quoted from post at 06:33:51 12/27/15)
How easy is it to adjust the plunger on a Deere 336, 327, 348 type balers How easy/hard is it to adjust/move your baler's plunger/knife over to the stationary knife?

Just curious.
Thanks,
Bill

Only small sq baler plungerhead I've adjusted is JD and the JD models you mentioned adjust very similar. Loosen hold down bolts on LH lower rail then adjust rail by turning nuts on 3 jack bolts. There's another guide rail on RH lower frt so loosen bolts & bump guide to remove slack. One needs to use caution to keep guides straight with PH & not put excessive pressure on wear blocks & brgs & securely re-tighten guide bolts.

showcrop · Dec 27, 2015

I had to remove the plunger head on my JD 336. Rust under the rails.

Tx Jim · Dec 27, 2015

showcrop
Was your baler stored inside or outside? Granted my 347 is newer than a 336 but I have no rust buildup under PH guides on it but it is stored inside when not in use.

showcrop · Dec 27, 2015

(quoted from post at 07:13:17 12/27/15)
showcrop
Was your baler stored inside or outside? Granted my 347 is newer than a 336 but I have no rust buildup under PH guides on it but it is stored inside when not in use.

The PO swore up and down that it had always been shedded, but the top of the chamber under the knotters was rusted thin, along with a lot of rust under the channels. Over the years here many others have posted about rust under the channels, sometimes to the extent that the plunger head is hard to move, and heats up in use.

JayinNY · Dec 28, 2015

I also had rust under the rails on my JD 346, it
wasent to bad of a job.

RodinNS · Dec 29, 2015

I think you'd find most plunger adjustments are the same over most balers aside from the inline Hesstons. General procedure to start is to adjust lower right guide to set the stationary knife recession. Then you adjust the plunger rails on the left to achieve the correct clearance between the knives... Then set the forward wear block shims on the plunger to control thrust. I would imagine the specs are a bit different on every baler but the basic procedure would be about the same. Needless to say you best remove the adjustment rails first and beat all of the rust out... otherwise the adjustments will not be true.

My Deere 327 was also stored inside when I bought it... and stuck solid and well rusted. I beat ALL of the rust out of the chamber and trued everything up. Now the plunger will come out in 5-10 min... Basically as long as it takes to empty the baler, remove the rear deflector I have on it, the bale wedges... and undo the crank pin bolts. I pull the plunger a couple times per season to sharpen the knives and inspect the wrist pin.

Rod

tomturkey · Dec 29, 2015

This is not much help for your question, but more of a response to "stored inside" thoughts. Equipment stored inside over a dirt floor will accumulate a lot of rust over time. The moisture just keeps coming from the soil below and condensing on the cold steel. Of course inside is better but if your "barn find" sat in a dirt floored shed for any length of time expect rust. Bill I've followed your posts on the NH 68 rebuild, thanks for sharing. I think I've learned a thing or two from reading them. thanks.....gobble

showcrop · Dec 30, 2015

FWIW, I have found that removing rust of this sort, that builds up under paint or behind another steel part, as RodNS alludes to is to "beat it out". I use my slag hammer for this mostly. The shock of the hammer blow causes the steel to bend slightly. The heavy pieces of rust are brittle and won't bend so they pop off. Far faster than wire wheeling or flap wheeling.

RodinNS · Dec 30, 2015

Yep. I use the sharp end of a 36" tire spoon... Slag hammer would be great too.

Rod

Plunger Adjustment

Bill VA

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Tx Jim

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showcrop

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Tx Jim

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showcrop

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JayinNY

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RodinNS

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tomturkey

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showcrop

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RodinNS

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