14t baler timing

joe201 · Oct 21, 2015

I think I've got everything freed up and oiled on my 14t baler it had been setting in a barn for almost 30 years.I timed the feeder teeth so its 17 1/4 inches from the left edge of the feeder support. The needles measures 2 inches from the plunger head face when the knotter is tripped and the needle tips are flush with the top edge of the bale case bottom grove flanges on the compression stroke.I am having trouble figuring out the plunger head safety stop check. The book says trip the knotters and turn flywheel by hand until needles retract toward the home position and safety stop is flush with bottom of bale case.Then the plunger head on compression stroke should be within 2 3/4 to 3 3/4 from safety stop.
Can anyone explain this last step I'm just not getting it.
Thanks for the all your advice Joe

donjr · Oct 21, 2015

The whole operation of the knotters is so quick that it happens on the retract and return stroke of the PH. It is well into it's compression stroke as the needles are being retracted to home. You want the needles- and the safety stop to be OUT of the chamber before the head shears them off, and that distance is a minimum in the completion of the knotting cycle.

Tx Jim · Oct 22, 2015

Joe
As long as needle frame when in home position has PH stop pulled clear of bale case and when knotter is tripped PH stop fully enters bale case you should be fine.

I think what 2-3/4''-3-3/4'' measurement is just to give PH stop adequate time to be clear of bale case before PH arrives on it's compression stroke.

joe201 · Oct 22, 2015

I've got the timing set the feeder tooth measures 17 1/4 inches from the outer feeder frame support(book says 17 5/8) but to get the needle timing set to the 1 to 2 1/4 inches from plunger head when the needles enter the bottom of the bale chamber on the compression stroke I had to back feeder up a tooth.The plunger head safety stop is set to 3 inches from the plunger head.So after I got that set I put 2 rolls of plastic 9000 string in and had to adjust the tension clips on the bale box to get the 15 pound pull tension on the string. Then I crossed my fingers and re baled 20 bales of hay and it tied every bale.I bought this baler as a backup, I have a nh 275 that I use but now it has a broke knotter frame. New holland wants $274.00 for the knotter frame any body have a used one? The nh 275 will bale around 225 bales a hour and I'm wondering about how many bales per hour will the 14t bale ? The 14t runs real smooth and if it isn't to much slower it just might become the main baler.
thanks for your advice and help Joe

Andy Martin · Oct 23, 2015

Any idea how the knotter frame broke? Obviously unless that is fixed a replacement won't help. It can be welded, probably cast steel.

old · Oct 23, 2015

When it broke the knotter frame did it also break the needles?? O have a 14T that the plunger stop did not work on it and it broke the needles and that in turn broke the knotter frames

Tx Jim · Oct 23, 2015

(quoted from post at 12:52:00 10/23/15) O have a 14T that the plunger stop did not work on it and it broke the needles and that in turn broke the knotter frames

That verifies that one should not take a sq baler to the field to bale hay unless correct operation of PH stop is verified.

joe201 · Oct 23, 2015

Yes, I square knotted the new twine and trimmed the extra off ,when old twine ran out and new twine pulled in and hung on bill hook and I heard a big bang. I've tied the balls of twine for years and have never had this happened.From now on I'll wait till I see that its out of twine and restring and re bale.Ordered a new knotter frame from new holland $ 274.00, it was $ 10.00 cheaper but $ 25.00 shipping from Messick. E-bay was $175.00 for wore out one.
Thanks for your advice and help Joe

joe201 · Oct 23, 2015

No it didn't hit the neddles it broke a fly wheel shear bolt, but not the knotter shear bolt. Guess I got lucky, everything looks ok. gonna check the timing when I replace the knotter frame.
Thanks Joe

14t baler timing

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