Rock and Stub Guards

Boning up some on regular vs stub guards on haybines.

I get it that rocks and stub guards don't mix.

When you folks are encountering rocks is it typically from fields that just have permanent rocks that are somewhat poking through the ground or fresh rocks that are from a plowed, but reseeded field?

Our established fields are rock free, with a few ground hog mounds, and I think good candidates to use stub guards on. However, the fields we are opening have rocks form the soil being disturbed after clear cutting and stump removal. The rocks will be picked, and those that aren't will go down in the soil. Don't think these fields would be ready, yet, for stub guards.

What/how are the rocks like in your fields when you cannot use stub guards with your haybine? Is it a permanent situation or over time the rocks are picked or go down in the sod and you can use stub guards?

Thanks,
Bill

I guess that I don't get it that rocks and stub guards don't mix. I always thought that stub guards were to get you into matted material that would clog regular guards.

I mow a lot of prairie grass fields with naturally occurring field stone. A rock strike will bend a regular guard up if hit just right. They also bend back down with a pipe. I don't think stub guards would bend up as easily.

I seem to run my haybine pretty high compared to most folks...setting the skid shoes so the sickle bar runs 2-1/2 to 3" above the ground. I think the hay recovers faster after mowing.

Can't say I've never hit a rock and busted a section, but it's pretty few and far between.

Fred

In northern climates on glacial till as opposed to bottom land, you get a new "crop" of rocks every spring, and the ones you already had are a little higher.

I cut about 3" high as well, and also keep my springs adjusted so the header floats with an easy one hand lift.

I run both types Bill. The stubs are lots easier to use. Set your skids to give you a 3-4" aftermath and you'll be better off for it. Ledge mis the issue here and it doesn't seem to make a difference in longevity. BUT! Rock guards tend to get bent more than stubs and stubs seem to break sections more than bend.

(quoted from post at 05:30:52 10/13/15)
I run both types Bill. The stubs are lots easier to use. Set your skids to give you a 3-4" aftermath and you'll be better off for it. Ledge mis the issue here and it doesn't seem to make a difference in longevity. BUT! Rock guards tend to get bent more than stubs and stubs seem to break sections more than bend.

Click to expand...

^^^^^ 100% true

I'm running stubs right now on my own haybine, after years of working with my brother who uses full (rock) guards.

I cut some land this year that was plowed and fit for corn and then just left alone about eight years ago.

I set the haybine a little high ( I was only cutting for bedding anyway) and made sure that I had a few spare sections with me.

I didn't bend any of the stub guards, but I did need to replace four or five sections; which is easy with bolt-ons.

I'm not sure which brand you're running, but Hesston stub guards have a retaining clip that rides over the top of sections. Each stub guard has a matching retaining clip.

These clips can be problematic in two senses:

1. If you cut in areas with a lot of thatch and undergrowth, the mower will cut better than with rock guards for the most part, but sometimes a wad of thatch will squeeze in between the section and the top clip. Once that top clip is lifted, the scissor action of the section vs guard/clip is reduced and the cutting won't be very clean. It won't leave a complete "mohawk" like a plugged rock guard, but the stubble will be uneven behind that section of the knife.

2. Since the section is the leading edge of the mower now, the section can get bent up without breaking...which can bend the top clip as well. These bent sections might fool you for a while; because, just like the problem above, it sort of cuts...just not perfect. They will wear on your belts and drive mechanism, though; because they don't slide cleanly between the clip and stub guard. I usually find these by listening when I pick the mower up at the end of the row. They usually make a lot of chatter. (be careful when you replace them, though...all that friction makes them hotter than heck!!!)

I found it handy to have a few spare top clips on hand while mowing these fields. The bent ones can be bent back to shape, but it's not easily done in the field. If you have a few spares, you can bolt on a new one quickly and straighten out the bent one later, back at the ranch.