JD 336 and Up Baler Question

Bill VA

Well-known Member
The JD336 - is it a higher capacity baler than the later 327 and 328 models? Where does it fall as compared to the 3x7 and 3x8 series line-up.

Do all of the JD square balers from the 336 only have 3 roller bearings on the plunger bottom and skid shoes on the top?

When adjusting the plunger knife to the stationary knife on the JD 336 and up balers, do you physically move the plunger and with it the plunger
knife to the stationary knife or is knife adjustment always shims?

Just curious.

Thanks!
Bill
 
IIRC 327/328 balers were not sold here so I'm not familiar with them but I think they may just be a replacement for 336 as 337/338 balers had a wider pickup with more teeth than a 336.

Yes 336 has same number(3) & type PH brgs as even a 348. 327/328 utilized these same brgs

Correct method to adjust PH knife to stationary knife is loosen lower LH bottom rail and using 3 adjusting bolts(parts key 27) to move rail over evenly. Shims are utilized on stationary knife to get it to line up with PH guide(parts key 10)
mvphoto27860.gif
 
No. the 336 is the first/smallest of the 'new. series balers. Older,made late '70s. the 327/28 are newer.The 'replacements'.
 
Second digit represents capacity in increasing order 2-3-4.
Third digit represents age in increasing order 3-4.
 

RickB
Does your info originate from JD?

336 has 4 tooth bar pickup attachment along with 327/328 while 337/338 has 6 tooth bars(78 teeth) and a wider pickup than 336 with 52 teeth.

Flywheel & plungerhead are identical on all models above
 
Does a 336 predate a 327 and 328? I'm pretty certain all xx6's were built before all xx7's which came before all xx8's.
I always thought a 336 was lesser in capacity than a 346.
327 - 337 -347 were increasing in capacity were they not?
As were 328- 338- 348?

I don't mind being educated if I have missed something.
 
Yes, the 336 predates the 327. In reality they are about the same capacity baler I think... The 337 would be a slight step up and the 347? would be the next jump. Deere being what they are basically just give you one more haydog and a class increase on the powershaft on each model. Aside from that they're much the same baler...

Rod
 

Rick
Yes 336 predates the 327 & 328. You're correct 336 has less capacity(narrower pickup with less rows of teeth) than a 346. You're also correct the last digit indicates time frame they were built as XX6 were built at same time then XX7 & then XX8. As I previously stated my knowledge of 327/328 is very limited other than utilizing parts catalogs for comparison. I thought the 327/328 models were the cheapest models of their era but I'm probably wrong. What makes things confusing is according to parts catalog 337 didn't have side bale resister doors but 327/328 & 338 had the doors.

I'm hoping someone with 327/328 knowledge will help us sort this out.
Jim
 
(quoted from post at 11:41:40 09/20/15) Yes, the 336 predates the 327. In reality they are about the same capacity baler I think... The 337 would be a slight step up and the 347? would be the next jump. Deere being what they are basically just give you one more haydog and a class increase on the powershaft on each model. Aside from that they're much the same baler...

Rod

Rod
336 had 3 hay dogs while 346 had 6 hay dogs. As I previously stated 346 had a wider pickup attachment with 6 tooth bars instead of 4 tooth bars for 336. 336 had no side hay resister doors.
 
Just like a NH 316 was the middle of the line in its day but is very similar to the 565 / BC5050 which are the smallest of today.
 
Are you sure the plungers are the same between the various models? I did a bit of research on that a month ago and while I forget the exact things I turned up it seems to me that the part numbers were different. That of course does not mean they are substantially different; just that they have different part numbers. In some other balers the higher capacity models also got heavier plungers.... which is why I wonder about this.
I was rather surprised to learn that I could basically make a 348 or equivalent out of m 327 by adding 3 more dogs. I've already upgraded the shaft because I couldn't keep the standard one on it anymore.
It's really quite a rip to learn that you pay perhaps several thousand more for a 'higher capacity' baler and all you get is 3 more hay dogs, a heavier shaft which cost no more to begin with and a 6 bar pickup that will do no more than the 4 bar...

Rod
 
I think you'll find more differences between models than you mentioned. Notice different part numbers for PH. Most driveline failures I've seen were caused by stuck slip clutch plates

336 etc plungerhead
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346 etc plungerhead

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These driveline failures were due to the cheap cross kits that are sold these days.... The Weasler stuff that most dealers keep around are an economy line that are rated at 25% less power than the OEM which is just enough to matter. If you putz around all day doing nothing you'll never notice. If you started pushing the baler a cross (or two) would make smoke in about 5 minutes and fly in less than 10. Slip clutch works fine on this baler... Also works much better with 35 series shaft vs the 14 series that was on it.

Rod
 
6 series balers built 1971-80, 7 series 81-87, 8 series 88-present. 347 and 348 run 93 strokes per minute rest are 80 spm. 327,328 and 336 use lighter drivelines than other models use and 347 and 348 had an optional heavier driveline. Width of pickup and number of tooth bars (4 or 6) vary amongst the models. These are the main differences among all the models on the basic baler itself. Bought a 20 year old 338 with about 6000 bales through it this year to take over the bulk of the baling from the 1973 336 my grandfather bought new with 400,000+ bales through it and the main differences are wider pickup with more teeth and heavier driveline. The u-joints in the lighter driveline are marginal on the 336/327/328 balers especially if you start putting higher horsepower in front. There are other small changes but the gearboxes, drivelines and pickups are the main differences.
 
It's been a while since I've done plungerhead work but just to add to Tx Jim's post the owners manual gives a detailed description of how to adjust the plungerhead and the stationary knife should sit behind the lower roller guide to prevent the knives from possibly locking. I can't remember how much but it is important.
 

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