sickle mower set up ?

I have been having many troubles with a Minnesota No.7 (I think) mower. The trouble is in the pitman connection to the sickle. The pitman stick connects to the sickle with two cast iron pieces that grab a ball on the end of the sickle.

The mower had a long life before I got it and the pitman stick was broken at that time. Now it is breaking the ends out of the clamps that grab the ball on the end of the sickle. The original design had a fork and spring arrangement that looks like it was supposed to adjust the clamping pressure on the ball as things wore.

All of those types of clamps are used up. Could be a reason for that. There is an older style, part numbers M53 and M54 that will work, but the clamping force is adjusted with a draw bolt.

My question is How much slack should there be in the clamp ? Barely perceptible, or enough that it can move 1/32", or...

Thanks

Greg

I assume you are talking about what I call the spoons? Where they clamp onto the "ball"of the sickle? There should be NO movement there. A worn sickle head is usually the culprit, but the spoons will get worn and bent over time also.

That spring as well as being part of the disconect keeps the to haves clamped tight together with no play unless things are wore out, The bolt is a left hand thread with lock slots for a spring to fit into to keep it from loosening up and should be tight enough that you can move the joint easily but no play. And the bolt style was discontinued from use by both Deere and IHC back in 30's with just the spring style still used and those parts are the same for all (except possibly side mount) Deere and IHC pitman mowers and will work fine with your mower. Expencive to buy but still easy to get in I think both OEM and aftermarket versions. The clamp to ball should be as tight as the nut on threads of a new bolt.

Not sure I understand your question.

Are you sure you have the right length pitman rod? To be sure, take the flywheel as far opposite the sickle as it will turn. Put onto the ball the 2 1/2s or spoons as the man said. Then measure the distance between the pitman holders onto the flywheel to the distance to the holders where the rod fits inside them. The sickle should be setting with one section to the L of the first rock guard. The second section should be mid way between the first rock guard when you measure. Ive had to make a few pitman rods for an old MH horse mower I once had. When I was a kid, I didn't like fooling with the spring and clamp and removed them and just ran a bolt where the center piece was and bolted it pretty tight to where I couldn't hardly notice any play. Now that im retired and have time, I don't do that.
Always grease the ball, and put a shot in the sockets of the spoons before installing. Then squirt oil over the whole ball.spoons. I NOW take my sickle to be sharpened once a year by a professional sharpener. If you do this once, youll always do it because of the difference. I sharpened my own sickles for 30yrs, and thought I did a good job, but the pro sharpening was roughly twice as good as what I accomplished.

Thanks guys