24t baler-30 kicker

yothers

New User
Hey guys, I got a 24t baler with a #2 ejector (piece of junk) been babying it for few years and my patients cant take any more. It always seem to break when I most need depend on it. If I keep everything adjusted after about 800-1000 bales it seems to help out but it still breaks the arm that the bale push to actuate the ejector. What I was wondering, can I put a #30 kicker on without any problems. It looks like it mount up in place or the #2. I found a complete kicker (pump,lines,kicker) Has anyone replace a #2 ejector for a #30 kicker or any suggestions on maybe modifying the #2 latch mechanism. The baler is still working great and I bale about 3000 bale year with it. I did find a #30 for about 900 dollar, is that a bad price. Thank guys, any info will help. Need get baler working-lot more hay get done.
 
I've seen 30 ejectors on 24T and 224T balers but it has been a while since I have seen them. Call Finger Lakes Equipment 585-526-6705 as they work on JD square balers and maybe they can fix you up.
 
I just did what you are talking about a few years ago with a 24t. It would be nice to find a 30 that was on a 24t as the pump bracket and lines are different that the newer balers. I got lines from finger lake equipment in NY and they would have the pump bracket as well.In my area the 30's can be had for very little money as the Mexican dealers buy most Deere balers and they do not want the kickers.Where are you located? Your price seems high unless it is off a 24T with all the parts and perfect screens as I saw 2 good 24t balers with 30's sell for less than a $1000 this spring.You will not be sorry that you made the change. Tom
 
I just did the same thing to my 24T. I was able to find a #30 ejector originally from a 24T and made sure that I got all of the parts that are unique for 24T. As was mentioned, the pump bracket is different as well as the pump pressure and suction lines from pump. There's other minor things as well, I made sure to look through the #30 parts catalog when I first started looking for a #30. The brackets used to mount the #30 on the baler are different for a 24T, but the ones from your #2 may work.

I'm in WI and paid $200 for the whole setup, but that was several years ago. I just purchased another 30 ejector, this time from a 336 and without the pump setup, for $200. Took the two of them to make one #30 for my 24T.

Depending on where you are you should be able to find a 30 ejector for less than $900 (for that money it better be in great shape). I would suggest running ads, either on craigslist or in your local shopping papers to see what you can find.

If you need any other help, shoot me an email. The whole process is still fresh in my mind.
 
Thanks guys for the info, very helpful. Got few quick questions tho. Are the pumps the same for 24t and 336. I know the 336 and new balers run little faster that the 24t at the big fly wheel. (so I think and it looks) Will this make a diff. Also, will I have to change tire on my baler since going to the 30 ejector. I can find the ejectors but where I run into the expense is the pump, lines and the mounting brackets. does this make sense to you guys. I don't mind spending little extra on baler cause it still works great.
 
The pumps are the same. Even on your baler you should have an axle extention that moves the right wheel back. It was to be installed whenever a thrower was added. Tom
 
Will the flywheel work that is on my 24t (no belt grooves for belt to ride) or do I need find on from newer baler of off of another 24t that used a 30 ejector
 
For the flywheel on a 24T you add a strip of 3M Scotch Tread to your existing flywheel. The twin belts just ride on that. You should be able to get Scotch Tread at a hardware store. I purchased about an 8 foot strip of 4 inch Scotch Tread, cut it down to about 3 inches in width and then put it on the flywheel. It's got an adhesive back so you just need to clean the flywheel good and it will adhere to it.

If you can, I would recommend going online to view the Deere PC (jdparts.com). I would also suggest getting an Operator's Manual for a #30 ejector as that has the installation instructions for mounting it on a baler (24T or 336) and adjusting everything correctly. Both have good illustrations for the different parts.
 

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