NewHolland super 68 motor baler

wondering how this baler works with a EZ trail style bale basket wagon, would it be better to use a pto drive or the motor, its a 2 cyl wisconsin engine...also using sisal twine do you have to change bill hooks if you go to poly twine.
 
To many factor that you are leaving out to be able to answer your question. What tractor are you pulling it with etc. As for the twine the twine knife's have to be good and sharp the use plastic twine but other then that not much to it
 
I suppose the Wisconsin engine is only about 16-20hp, and it would take a bit of power to push those bales up the chute into the bale basket. Maybe shoving a half-dozen bales instead of pushing one to the ground. One way to find out....
 


usually i bale with my super A , drop on the ground & pick up with a stack wagon...however its getting long in the tooth that hay wagon, & looking at ez trail style bale baskets as an alternative, sometimes us my 444 massey harris or my jd 60 as well in the hay especially if working on hills.
 
I am thinking its not going to be great unless you have long rows and not a lot of turns. I have a bale basket hooked to a NH 311. I have found it best to disengage the PTO and not bale on any sharp turns. When the basket is not straight in line with the baler is when things go wrong and bales get jambed up in the transition point from the end of the baler into the basket. Its a bear to get those jambed up bales that are super compressed out of the chute area. You have to cut the strings and dig them out flake by flake.
If you have long straight rows then a basket will really be ok. I have some 3 acre fields that have tree lines or fences around them and they are the ones I cant use the basket very well on. So to do them its either drop on the ground and pickup later or take the time to bolt the chutes back on the baler and hook a wagon up. With the EZ trail basket you have to take the chute off and use a special close center hitch that EZ trail sells.
 

I had a Wisconsin on my 68. I heavy hay it was all the engine wanted just bale. I would have my doubts about using the bale basket. But I live the idea of a bale basket, I just haven't found one nearby I can afford.

My 68 required no changes when I went to plastic twine. In fact it cured 95% of my knotting problems that were obviously a factor related to inconsistent twine. There are supposed to be "plastic" bill hooks out there, but I never needed them.
 
Well with the Super A you have to have the engine on the baler not enough tractor to pull and run it well if at all. The 444 and 60 well they would run the baler and pull it just fine.
 
When you're using an accumulator or a basket you simply back the tension off on the baler to compensate for the tension that is applied by the weight of the bales in the chute. If the baler can make a 35# bale now it can do it with a basket. That said..... I pity anyone trying to do anything with one of those blasted old engines. It's gonna be slow.

Rod
 
Thats why i'm on here asking about this...good info..clues..love it...my baler/engine have it set to start on one flip of the starting wheel, ( not an electric start) its a mag start...yes lessen the bale tension, bales will be lighter....yeah i get stares from some baling with my A...it get a great deal of double takes..I worked a summer practice at macdonalad college in pq years ago a farmer would run his baler on this 2 cyl wisc with a auto bale stooker ( engine on it, pulling the whole thing with his W4...of course on flat ground, we'd pick up with a B414 /w loader & stack on wagon, drive to the barn with the super A...oh it was a show...moving a wagon with 200 blaes on it...gotta be carefull...good brakes...but his whole complement in haying on his farm was a w4, , 2 super A's & a B414...all gassers & gas at 80 cents/gal...oh just things i remember...dont get me wrong i see the ins & outs of all this...just trying to stay economical...the bale baskets have my eye over the nh Hyd Hay wagons though.
 
If the baler and it's engine work fine you won't have any trouble with the baskets so long as you have enough tractor in front of it to handle the hills. Like I said earlier, the baskets don't require any more effort on the part of the baler. You're just using the load in the chute to tension the bale instead of using springs on the bale chamber to provide tension. Only problem you would have is if you only make 20# crap sacks for bales now... that not going to work in the basket. You need a baler that ties reliably and forms good square bales.

I missed your question about the bill hooks earlier... but yes, you need a poly bill hook for the baler. By that I mean you need a bill hook that has a finger that closes tightly on the tongue of the hook. If it has a 1/4" gap, you have the sisal hooks. They can be changed out for a hundred and change each last I looked... or modify what you have so the finger closes tighter.
 
i'm making bales that are at least 40-50lbs....and room for more....the machine is in good shape, easiest machine i ever worked on....run about 5000 bale/year through it....have a complete set of spare parts...the machine i got for 200 some years ago...its amazed me, had amish wanting to buy it...still i keep going with it, someday might get an 275..same combo with motor...like them this time an electric start...
 
I think you'll be fine with the basket.. the hardest thing to master is probably making sure you have a bale half way into the basket chute before you try and make a sharp turn. If the bale is not started up the ramp when you turn... that is when things get jambed up bad.

Rod
 
yes i can see that...sharp turns a no no...have to stop , get off & fork the hay into chamber to get around the turn...., after all cant be sitting all day...thats the tiring part of working in the field...right....
 
I don't fork anything... you just learn when and where to swing wide or sometimes back up and adjust the angle of the machines so it can make the turn. Baskets aren't too bad... but I use a Kuhns accumulator that is quite long. That takes a lot of space to turn. You learn soon enough what you can get away with. If you do jamb the chute the easiest thing is to turn hard to one side to the basket is nearly perpendicular to the baler and then the bales usually release unless you've run a bale hard against the corner of the chute. Then you may need a large bar to pry it out... and you'll probably have stalled the Wisconsin by that point lol

Rod
 
Fix that stack wagon and forget the basket, I have seen them work and would not have one on the place.
 
(quoted from post at 06:13:56 08/18/15) Fix that stack wagon and forget the basket, I have seen them work and would not have one on the place.
Just looking at the possibilities ..and ways of making haying easier...
 
(quoted from post at 06:13:56 08/18/15) Fix that stack wagon and forget the basket, I have seen them work and would not have one on the place.
Just looking at the possibilities ..and ways of making haying easier...
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top