nh 275 baler twine hanging on billhook

joe201

Member
so far I've replaced the right billhook and it will bale 20 to 30 then bust 1 or 2 then bale 20 to 30 and so on.It ties the knot and the knot hangs on billhook. Any help would be great
Joe c
 
1)Adjust the the wiper arm, per the manual. It is bendable, but don't hit it with a hammer.
2) A little emory cloth on the billhook and tooth(burr?) can sometimes help.
Spray a little wd40 on the bill hooks when you are done baling to keep them shiny and smooth.
 
I have a 275 operator's manual and it doesn't go into any detail about adjusting twine knife. is there another manual that goes into more detail? Also the manual talks about the twine holder tension spring and that the spring can be adjusted. How tight do you adjust the knotter / twister brake ?Is there another site that shows more about the knotter adjustments? Any info and help would be great.
Thanks Joe
 
(quoted from post at 02:45:02 07/23/15) so far I've replaced the right billhook and it will bale 20 to 30 then bust 1 or 2 then bale 20 to 30 and so on.It ties the knot and the knot hangs on billhook. Any help would be great
Joe c

What hayhayhay said plus with no hay in baler trip the starwheel and run it thru by hand and stopping at precise point where wiper arm approaches hooks and compare the good side position with bad side and bend accordingly.
 
There used to be a new holland video on Youtube that explained how a baler knotter works. Very helpful when diagnosing repairs.
 

I had a similar problem with a 269 that I tuned up for a friend after a few years of non-usage a few years ago. I followed the advice above about:

Wiper arm distance
Very light filing/emory cloth on billhook to ensure there are no burrs
A drop or two of WD-40 every day after finishing

The knotter worked better, but the issue didn't go away.

I was using 9000 foot bales of sisal twine.

My brother-in-law suggested that the twine may have thin spots that make the twine and/or knots too small to pull off the hook cleanly.

I switched over to 7000 foot bales of sisal twine (shorter linear feet in the same size spool means thicker twine) and the old girl would go hundreds of bales without breaking a bale. Even then, it wouldn't break because of a hang-up, it would usually be because the twine had a crappy spot that broke somewhere between the knots, or because the bale was mis-shaped.
 
from my 275 manual, "knots hanging on billhook"
1 Too much tension on billhook cam
2 Rough billhook
3 bill hook cam binding on bill hook adjusting screw
4 Knife arm stripper does not contact back of billhook
5 Knife arm does not travel far enough
6 twine slipping out of twine holder during bale formation. (need a helper driving tractor while baling and you walk along and watch the twine holder.
 
Interesting. I may try that on hay I plan to sell. The buyers get careless and break a lot of bales loading and throwing. Where do you buy 7000 twine? Does it cost a lot more?
 
My 67 was doing this and I replaced the brass ball that rides inside that goofy looking wheel thingy. Hope you know what I'm talking about, but the brass balls had bad flat spots. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 06:43:25 07/25/15) Interesting. I may try that on hay I plan to sell. The buyers get careless and break a lot of bales loading and throwing. Where do you buy 7000 twine? Does it cost a lot more?

7000 foot twine was just sitting next to the 9000 foot twine at tractor supply.

However, in recent years, it has been sparse or absent, as display space is now being used up by the 16000 foot or longer round baler twine.

When I can find 7000 foot twine, it costs the same per bale of twine. It's just more expensive because you only get 7000 feet of it; instead of 9000 feet. The bales of twine are the same size, but you get less bales of hay per bale of twine due to the shorter length.
 

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