Kelly in tx
Member
My baler (small squares) is leaving MANY bales standing on their ends. What do I do to get them to drop flat?
- Thread starter Kelly in tx
- Start date
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Drop bale chute extension lower or possibly bales aren't 36'' long.
notjustair
Well-known Member
I use a skid steer accumulator so they aren't a big problem. It kind of makes me laugh when I get a bunch to stand. If I walked out and did it by hand I bet every one of them would fall. When I baled a couple of days ago I bet every third one stood up. Yesterday with the same field and settings none stood up.
lastcowboy32
Well-known Member
I'm wondering if adjusting the bale tray so that one side is slightly lower than the other would help?
I've done that with ours with the thinking being that the bales never quite hit flat and square on an end, making it more probable that they'll teeter over and lay down.
Could be a fluke, but seems to work.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
May I ask what paart of a sq baler baler you're referring to as a "bale tray"? I've never heard that term before.
lastcowboy32
Well-known Member
The part that hangs off of the back of the bale chamber, just behind the threaded tension clamps, hinged at the bottom and held by a chain on each side that go through a key-shaped hole in a heavy metal bracket so that you can adjust the length of the chain and hence the height/tilt of the "tray".
I think that others above me called it a "shoot" (sic), others have spelled it "chute"...which I think is correct.
Our old baler's chute has a little slop in the hinge at the bottom. If I set the chains on each side to a length that's a link or two different, it gets a little tilt. Bales seem to lay down pretty well, as they hit the ground a little off balance.
That idea could probably be taken to an extreme, which would cause the bales to roll onto their side or some other orientation; which could cause a whole list of other problems.
We also make long bales, you mention 36" above. That probably makes it harder for them to stand on end, like you said.
I think that others above me called it a "shoot" (sic), others have spelled it "chute"...which I think is correct.
Our old baler's chute has a little slop in the hinge at the bottom. If I set the chains on each side to a length that's a link or two different, it gets a little tilt. Bales seem to lay down pretty well, as they hit the ground a little off balance.
That idea could probably be taken to an extreme, which would cause the bales to roll onto their side or some other orientation; which could cause a whole list of other problems.
We also make long bales, you mention 36" above. That probably makes it harder for them to stand on end, like you said.
And to think some people go out and stand them all on end. They if they want to fall the lean two together so they will stand. Back in the 1950's when I was doing custom baling several customers that only wanted the bales dropped on the ground would do that.
You can lengthen or shorten the bale a small amount to help some. Lowering the shoot will help also. It is hard for them to stand on end if the end of the shoot is only six or eight inches off the ground.
You can lengthen or shorten the bale a small amount to help some. Lowering the shoot will help also. It is hard for them to stand on end if the end of the shoot is only six or eight inches off the ground.
Kelly in tx
Member
Garry, my baler is an ancient John Deere
214 W S (wire tie), which is totally worn out. I"m not
a B T O lol, - to me 600 bales is maybe an average
season. I do enjoy making hay tho. I cut it with draft
horses, rake with a 39 Farmall H, then bale with my
64 John Deere 3020. Everything is old and worn out
including me.
214 W S (wire tie), which is totally worn out. I"m not
a B T O lol, - to me 600 bales is maybe an average
season. I do enjoy making hay tho. I cut it with draft
horses, rake with a 39 Farmall H, then bale with my
64 John Deere 3020. Everything is old and worn out
including me.
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