New Holland Baler Needle Material

GarryinNC

Well-known Member
What are the twine needles on,say a 273 baler, made of? Forged steel? Cast iron/steel? We have welded them with nickel rod. What has been your experience as to what is best to weld them. We have never had one fail at the weld, but I wondered what results others have had.
Have one coming over tomorrow morning with both needles broken. Will obviously have to find out what caused it to happen.

Thanks,
Garry
 
File a little off. If the filings are gray it's cast iron. There is a lever under the frame that is pulled back by the rod along the left side. The needles pull the rod back when they're in the home position only. Any time the needles are off of home that lever will block the crank arm and shear the bolt to protect the needles. The lever needs to be greased and move freely. Mine have been welded.
 
Yes, the plunger safety stop. He said he was turning the flywheel by hand when they broke! He was trying to bale johnson grass that was not fully cured. Will learn 'The Rest of the Story' in the morning, I guess. Thanks Mike.

Garry
 
I think most needles are made of "Malleable iron", that it meant to be adjusted in a press so the needles are both the same curvature - then the needles will also have to adjusted to contact the knotters as described in the manual.

If we bent a needle, we removed both needles, took them to a dealer and used a new needle from the parts department to re-curve our needles in the press.

If we broke a needle, we would weld it with nickel rod - just be careful setting the curvature with pressure too close to the weld.

My Dad grew up with binders so he understood that many parts of the knotter system are meant to be adjusted by bending the malleable iron - basically the same system that is used today on balers.
 
Best way to check material is to hit it quick with an angle grinder and note the
color of the sparks. More sparse red/orange is cast iron, whiter and more dense is
steel.

I welded a needle about ten years ago when one broke, been good for thousands of
bales since. I also build up the grooves in the twine holes when they get worn out
of round, then touch them up smooth with a die grinder.

Key to welding cast without it cracking is to pre-heat with your torch just to take
the chill off, and slow cool under sand or a blanket. Nickel rods work the best, in
my experience. Stainless works well too, goes on like buttah, but is pricey.
 
I bought aftermarket needles for my NH269 and they worked excellent. My originals had been welded numerous times and for the $150-160 or so I got replacements. bjr
 
Thanks to everyone,
Welded them today, one with Nomacast rod, and one with a rod for cast iron that is 55% nickel. Got them back on and adjusted, will see how they do.

The spring was gone from the plunger safety stop linkage, so the stop never pulled in. I think a slug of johnson grass hay(not cured) broke the needles. He had stopped the baler, cleaned out some heavy hay and said he was turning it by hand when they broke. It may have been in the middle of a tie cycle and he turned the flywheel backward, and hay got between plunger and needles. Then was turned forward. Do not see how they could break when turning by hand though. May not have gotten the full story.

Garry
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top