jd 375 round baler twine wont cut

on/wi

New User
Any tricks to help me get this thing to work right would be great.the hyds are strong,swapped hyd outlets around,tried thicker plastic
twine 9000 or 7200 no change like to use 20000. You can shave with the knife all the linkages look new,the string is routed like it should be
and the spring clips look clean.the twine just slides thru, I shimmed up the cut bar and loaded up the pressure springs right by the cut
mechanism to no avail I must be missing the obvious.nothing is bent I finally just used the front single pipe and cut by hand.help my knees
please


thank you
 
Is twine support(parts key 5)level with knife? Have you looked at support for a depression where twine normally passes the support? Have you been greasing twine tube pivot points regularly?
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Make sure number #20 isn't bent allowing twine to run over edge of bale and miss the knife and anvil.
On my 385 I cut the #7 in half so I could move the knife side to side to help locate a new edge.
 
I am having a similar problem so I made a change to be tested the next time I bale: I added spacers, a large nut and 2 washers between items 12 and item 16A to force more pressure on the cutter (which I sharpened and no groves in the landing which I sanded the rust off also) and I changed from 140# tensile twine to 110. We'll see what happens.

I too only use the top arm as one is enough to keep track of for me and, after the tying problems I had with my 530, the top arm puts the twine closer to the roll and it catches easer.

Oh, that's another point. When I can get the cutter to cut as it should, I have about 12" of string dangling which easily catches on the next bale. If the cutter doesn't do it's job properly it puts tension on the twine when and if it cuts resulting in the twine spring tension shooting it back in the tube somewhat and only about 6" sticks out...rest up the tube....and that won't catch.

Good luck,
Mark
 
(quoted from post at 07:35:45 06/20/15) If the cutter doesn't do it's job properly it puts tension on the twine when and if it cuts resulting in the twine spring tension shooting it back in the tube somewhat and only about 6" sticks out...rest up the tube....and that won't catch.

Good luck,
Mark

Have you tried lowering twine tension? Does the twine tube have a groove worn in the end of it? If so using a die grinder smooth out the groove.
 
Boy, that was quick. No groove in the end of the arm, but a groove in the sheet metal where the twine comes out of the baler (guide is
not scored there but baler sheet metal was protruding over the edge...isn't now) and heads to the wheel; large enough to not appear to
be a problem. Tension is set for a slight pull. When the arm is in the stow position, it takes little effort to pull it out. Probably would
solve the problem with a new blade, but in looking at mine, sharpened on a diamond dust type stone, it's plenty sharp and meets up
well with the plate.
 

My personal opinion is JD engineers could have made a better knife design but I guess they're happy with it since it's relatively the same from 30 series-current models. I hate the frazzled end that sometimes sticks to crop stems when bale is ejected and then unrolls end of twine that was on bale.
 
So that's why that happens. I thought it was to fuzz up the supply end so that it would be easier for the new roll to snag it on the way
buy. Agree it's a pain.
 

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